Truffle Cardigan

(Repost from Megan Rogers’ blog, which isn’t up anymore)

Truffle Cardigan

by Megan Rogers

Tutorial: Truffle Cardigan From the Ground Up- Part 1

February 3, 2008 by dullegriet


Well, it’s February, and I do believe I owe you a tutorial on my Truffle Cardigan knock off. Thank you so much to all the people who have favorited it- you’ve made me really happy.

As I have told several people who’ve asked for the pattern, I feel weird publishing a pattern for a sweater that is so close to the original, despite all the rules of copyrights in clothing. But, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with showing people how made the sweater. Hopefully my explanation will be clear enough that you can follow the guide lines and make up your own version of the Truffle Cardigan.

First thing’s first, Supplies:


I used 8 balls of Jo Sharp’s Silkroad Aran* Tweed, in Granary. I dug in to my stash for the crocheted ruffle trim, and came up with a ball of Rowan’s Wool Cotton in grey. You can see how very little of the Wool Cotton I actually used, so raiding the stash is best, I think. My version took the usual yarn requirements for a 38″ bust cardigan, so keep that in mind when you chose your yarn and size.

Other important items include: graph paper, pencil, measuring tape, crochet hook, and a circular needle that is long enough to let you try on the cardigan as you go. For the needles and crochet hook, I used the recommended needle size for the yarn (in this case, US size 7 needles, and a US E4 hook). You will also need about 7 buttons (any size, really) and one nice fancy button for the top of the collar, if you like.


I measure the same way you would for buying a garment: around the hips, around the waist, and around the bust. Then, I measure the height between each measurement and write that down as well. Check out this link for a pretty complete guide to sizing. You can also measure a favorite sweater or button down. The most important measurement for this will be around the hips, as you can try it on as you go and make sure that everything is working as it should.

Gauge, Ribbing, Cables, and Button Bands:

The next thing to do is to make a few swatches. One swatch should be to figure out the gauge for the ribbing at the bottom of the sweater (see photos at the top), one will be of the cable pattern you select for the front, and the other will be a test knit of the yoke pattern (more on that later). You will see that the cables should be worked over a different number of stitches than the ribbing for the same measurement, so keep that in mind.

In the picture above, you can see how I drew out my cable pattern on graph paper. I did this because I wanted a specific pattern, but I’m sure any kind of cable will look good. Drawing your own cable pattern is easy: using graph paper, mark off which stitches will be knit and which will be purled, and then lightly draw the curves you want on the paper. Next, outline the curves you’ve drawn to fit the grid of the graph paper and note where the cables will actually cross (you can see I used hash marks in mine).

After you have all your swatches lined up, figure out how wide you want the button band to be. Mine was 1.5 in, but yours may be different depending on the size of the buttons.

Knitting the Yoke:

The yoke is a little tricky, so I recommend knitting it first.

I chose a simple cable pattern for mine that was repeated twice. This is important because the shaping of the yoke comes from working one short row for every full row along the outside edge of the piece. Check out my diagram, which should hopefully clear things up. Knit this piece until it fits around your neck, with the cast off edge and the cast on edge the width of the button band apart. Depending on your gauge, you may find you need less or more short rows in order to keep the yoke from becoming either ruffly or too tight. Click here and scroll down for a good tutorial on knitting short rows with a wrap.



Knitting the Body:

When I make up a sweater, I always draw it out on graph paper to see where the decreases and increases should be (this is where the earlier measurements come in). The body of this sweater is knit all in one piece, so if you can remember where you want the sweater to hit your hip, then you could just as easily figure out the decreases and increases by trying it on and adjusting as you knit.

Using the measurement you’ve established for your hips and the ribbing gauge, figure out how many stitches you need to cast on for the back and two front panels of the cardigan. The cardigan is pretty tight fitting, so I used my actual body measurements, rather than allowing for ease. The formula for figuring out how much to cast on is basically the circumference of your hips minus the width of the button band.

Let’s write that out:

ribbing gauge (hip circumference – button band) = number of stitches to cast on for cardigan

Very fun. I haven’t done that in five years! Ok, moving on:

Once you cast on these stitches, work in the rib pattern until you hit a point where you either want to start decreasing (in which case do so, but at two evenly placed points where seams would be if this was a sweater you were sewing up), or you will want to switch to the cable pattern.

When you switch to the cable pattern, make sure that you adjust the number of stitches on your needles to fit the pattern. My cable pattern was one large motif flanked by two simple cables worked over six stitches. I only cabled on the front of the cardigan. I worked the back and sleeves in a seed stitch pattern.

After you’ve switched to the cables, keep on knitting- just remember to keep trying the cardigan on so that you can decrease as you get to the narrowest part of your waist, and then increase as you get to the bust. Stop when you get to where your arm holes should be.

So far, your sweater should look a little like this:


Next time: Arm holes and yoke curves, and a little bit of neck.

* Sorry, it was called to my attention that I wrote DK yarn, instead of Aran. I did make the sweater out of Aran weight wool, but since these are guidelines rather than instructions, you should be ok with whatever weight you chose!


Tutorial: Truffle Cardigan From the Ground Up- Part 2

February 11, 2008 by dullegriet

Ok, so I’m a little late with this, but I’m sure you’ll forgive me an hour (or two). Things have been a little busy around here, and I had to put this on the back burner.

And so, to Part 2: Arm holes and yoke curves, and a little bit of neck.

So, if you’ve come this far, you have knit a yoke and most of the torso. The next step:

Arm Holes:

I really don’t have a trick for arm holes. I usually use Ann Budd’s Handy Book of Sweater Patterns as a starting point. I used set-in sleeve decreases for this cardigan. If I don’t have the book handy, I fudge it and cast off 1″ at the beginning of the next two rows (because you’re knitting in the round here, you’d cast off 2″ where each armhole will be). Then, I cast off 1/2″ further on the next two rounds. After which, depending on how things are looking, I decrease one stitch at each side of the armhole for the next three or four rounds. That usually does the trick, but if you’re not comfortable with that, you could check out the Handy Book of Sweater Patterns, or consult a pattern you have available with similar gauge and sleeves.

Yoke Curves:

This is going to sound crazy, but put the yoke on around your neck. Yes, yes, I know, there should probably be a more scientific way to figure out the curves of the yoke, but I swear, this is how I did it. After the yoke is on, pinch it where the tops of you shoulders are and lay it flat in front of you. Now, you can see how the curves of the yoke will be.

After you’ve done this, you can use the graph paper to figure out how to cast off the neckline so that it matches the shape of the yoke. Now let’s take a little trip back to 1oth grade geometry- measure the slope of the yoke and work out how it should be on the graph paper. I know that’s a crappy description, so check out the diagram below:


After you’ve do this for both front panels and the back of the cardigan, sew the yoke to torso. Lovely!


The turtleneck part of the cardigan is knit by picking up stitches along the inside of the yoke (the part that’s next to your neck) and just knitting straight up in the same cable pattern that you used for the yoke. Keep knitting until the collar is as tall as suits you. Mine was about 2 inches. As you cast off, keep the pattern intact so that the collar doesn’t flatten at the top, but keeps the shape of the cables.
After you’ve got these bits done, you should be ready for the sleeves, button band, and crocheted trim- all of which I’ll cover next week.



Tutorial: Truffle Cardigan From the Ground Up- Part 3

February 17, 2008 by dullegriet

Sleeves, button band & crocheted trim:


Usually, when I knit sleeves I work in the round. For this sweater, though, I worked the sleeves flat and at the same time because I was adjusting them to fit my arm as I went, and I wanted to be sure they matched.

The sleeves are fairly easy. To make mine, I measured around my wrists, and then consulted the gauge for the ribbing to figure out how much to cast on. I worked the ribbing for about 2″, but you can do whatever you like. After the ribbing, I switched to seed stitch (the pattern I used for the back of the cardigan) and worked the rest that way.

To figure out the increasing, I measured around the widest part of my elbow. Then, I took the gauge for the seed stitch and figured out how many stitches it took to fit across my elbow. Then, I took that number and subtracted the number of stitches I cast on at the wrist. The difference, divided by two (one for each side) is the number of increases you need to make over the course of the forearm of the sleeve. I try to space them evenly between the wrist and elbow. To figure this out, take the number of rows it will take to get from the end of the ribbing to the widest part of your elbow and divide that number by the number of increases you need to make.

After the elbow, depending on the shape of your arm, you can either knit straight up or make increases as you need. When the sleeve is long enough to reach from your wrist to your armpit in a comfortable way, then you can begin to cast off to make the sleeve shaping.

When casting off for a sleeve, I always use the same decrease pattern that I used to make the arm hole shaping on the torso of the sweater. The sleeves for this cardigan are going to be a little different, however, because you need to consider how the yoke will lay across the top of the sleeve. To figure out the cast off curve at the top of the sleeve cap, just do the same kind of charting you did for the top of the cardigan body.

Pretty simple right? Right. Once you’ve got this done, sew up the sleeves and get ready for the button band and trim.

Button Band

Now we’re in to the realm of the ever-so-easy. At this point, you should have already determined how wide the button band will be. My cardigan buttons on the inside to hide the buttons, but you may want yours to show. Either way, the bands are knit the same way (just on opposite sides).

Using the gauge for ribbing, figure out how many stitches you need to pick up along the front of the cardigan. If you are knitting the band that the buttons will be sewn on to, just knit in the rib pattern until you have the full width of the button band completed. If you are working the band that has holes in it, work in the rib pattern until you have reached the half way point of the width measurement. Then, make holes large enough to accommodate your buttons.  Keep knitting until you reach your desired button width and cast off.  For a little how-to on knitting buttonholes, click here.  Marvelous! Buttonholes! And you’re very nearly done, just one step more…..

The Trim!

The trim can really be anything you want.  I just sort of ad-libbed a half-circle crochet pattern that could be repeated 8 times over the length of the button band.   Before I crocheted the lace, I made a line of chain stitches the same length as my button band, and then did a row of single crochet.  This is just to give a little bit of space for sewing the trim on to the button band.

I am not very good at reading or writing crochet patterns, but if you want to know what I did, I’ll do my best to explain it below.  Please note that I am using the British terms.  I’m sorry, I’m an American and I should know how we say these things.  In my defense, I didn’t learn how to crochet here, and as I said before, I’m not much one for crochet patterns.

Row 1:  Chain stitch for length of button band

Row 2:  Double crochet

Row 3: Single crochet 8, then make 5 chain stitches over 4 of the last row’s single crochets, *then single crochet 11, then make 5 chain stitches over 4 of the last row’s single crochets.*  Repeat from * to *.

Row 4: *Single crochet until you reach 2 stitches before the 5 chain stitches, treble crochet 2 times in to each chain stitch.*  Repeat from * to *.

Row 5: *Single crochet until you reach 2 stitches before the first treble crochet from the last row, treble crochet once, then single crochet, then treble crochet into the next stitch, then single crochet, and so on until you have a full second layer of treble crochets over the first one.* Repeat from * to *.

Row 6: *Single crochet, double crochet, 2 chain stitches, double crochet.*  Repeat from * to*.  Knot off, and you have a nice lacy trim.

If you can’t make that out, or you aren’t sure my trim is for you, I’m sure there are any number of acceptable lace patterns available online.  Just make sure that you can fit in an even number of repeats over the length of your button band, so it doesn’t look like anything was chopped off.

Finishing up:

Sew the trim to the wrong side of the top button  band (whichever you chose).  The first two rows of crochet should hide underneath the top button band.  Sew your buttons on, weave in your ends, give it a blocking, and there you go- a Truffle Cardigan from the ground up.

Sebastian’s Sweater

Sebastian’s Sweater

Size 6T
Chest: 25 in
Horizontal Gauge: 4 st to 1 in
Vertical Gauge: 5 st to 1 in
Needle: 8 circular
Yarn: Artful Yarns Flora – cotton rayon mix
Color: Gray
Method: Circular, bottom up, vertical ladders for sleeve openings, sleeves knit shoulder to cuff.


CO 100 st.

Fancy hem: k 1” of stockinette (k all rows), followed by ½” of garter (k 1 row, p 1 row)
Simple hem: k 1.5” of k2, p2 ribbing
Rustic hem: garter (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 1.5”


Simple body: K all rows until body (including hem) measures 10 in.
Fancy body: Mark off 4 underarm st for left side, and for right side – k all of these st, every round; This leaves 46 st front and 46 st back – use your favorite pattern for these st. A traditional k and p st gansey pattern would be the easiest fancy body design here. Avoid cables, they will make the sweater too tight for your toddler. If you insist on using cables, size up another needle size or two.

Now you’re at the underarms. Those four st under each arm? Run a bit of spare yarn through them. These will be your platform st for your vertical ladder. Do not skip them or anything, keep knitting them as usual.

Knit another 5 in; now you are at the neckline.


Divide front and back 46 st not including the 4 right and left underarm st. Drop those.

Of those 46 front st, the middle 20 are the front neck – mark off 13 left front shoulder, 20 front neck, 13 right front shoulder, (4 underarm st, FALLEN), 13 right back shoulder, 20 back neck, 13 left back shoulder, (4 underarm st, FALLEN).

The FALLEN (DROPPED) st are not on any needle or waste yarn. As they fall, they will leave behind a horizontal line on each row. That is GOOD. When the FALLEN st reach the platform st, they will STOP FALLING. This is GOOD. Do NOT freak out.

Place 20 front neck st and 20 back neck st together on waste yarn.

CO shoulder st together – if you want the seams to show, do it on the right side, if you want the seams hidden, do it on the wrong side. Join the right front to the right back, and the left front to the left back.


Those 40 st together on the waste yarn are your neckline. PU and finish as follows:

Fancy neck: ½” of garter (k 1 row, p 1 row), then k 1” of stockinette (k all rows)
Simple neck: k 1.5” of k2, p2 ribbing
Rustic neck: garter (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 1.5”

CO as you like.

TIP: You can raise the back neck by adding short rows to the back neck st if you like and know how to do that. Instructions are not included here. I’d recommend Japanese short rows (best video how to is by Very Pink Knits on YouTube), as they are the easiest in my opinion. Your mileage may vary.


CUT the ladder created by the FALLEN (dropped) stitches in half.

KNOT two rows of ladders at a time, both left and right, all the way to the platform st.

The vertical ladder steek is now secured.

Continuing on:

PU four platform st, and front body, neck, back body st.

K three rows, do a decrease before and after the four platform underarm st in the fourth row.

Repeat until sleeve length is 12 inches.

Fancy cuff: 1” of stockinette (k all rows), followed by ½” of garter (k 1 row, p 1 row)
Simple cuff: k 1.5” of k2, p2 ribbing
Rustic cuff: garter (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 1.5”

CO as you like.

Baby Raglan

Yarn: Artful Yarns Flora
Color: Grey
Needle: 8 circular
Gauge: 5 st to 1 in

Child size: 2 T (just a guess, better bigger than smaller)
Sizing from:
Chest: 21 in

Sweater pattern: EZ’s Knitting Without Tears Seamless Raglan, p. 73
Sweater is bottom up, worked in the round.
The body is knit first, up to the yoke. The two sleeves are knit second, up to the yoke.
Then sleeves and body are joined, and the yoke and neckline are knit.

NOTE: I initially thought the gauge was 5 st to 1 in. The CO st were written for that.


CO 100 st.

Knit two inches of hem in k2p2.
(I wanted a fancy hem, so I did one inch of stockinette followed by one half inch of garter. Therefore the hem rolls but not too much. Just enough for style ;))

Knit ten inches in plain stockinette.

Body has now been knit up until the yoke.


CO 20 st.

Knit two inches of cuff in k2p2.
(I wanted a fancy cuff, so I did one inch of stockinette followed by one half inch of garter.)

Total sleeve length will be 8 inches.

PM before and after four underarm st.

Make inc before and after those four st, every 4 rows.
Increase until you have 33 st, then work straight to underarm.


Place 8 st centered around four underarm st on sleeves on spare yarn.

Place 8 st for left body on spare yarn.

Place 8 st for right body on spare yarn.

Total yoke size is 5 inches (math: yoke is 25% of body, which here is 20 in).

The first half of the yoke is worked even (the first 2.5 in).

At 2.5 in, 3.5 in, and 4.5 in, do a decrease row (k1, k2tog).

Short row back of neck shaping (copy hem and cuff design).
(Look at youtube tutorial for Japanese Short Row Shaping).

Weave in ends.

Knit up underarms with mattress stitch.

Done and done.

Juneberry Cardigan (MTD Design)

I purchased this Juneberry Cardigan pattern and started knitting this week.

Lots of stop and go as it seems I still have so much to learn.

But just look at this cardigan, isn’t it worth it??


So elegantly designed, and great pattern.

I’m just super slow, so messaged the designer just a bit too much. She was super nice and helpful, and responded to my (stupid and slow) questions right away!

I’m sharing what I learned, hoping it helps you. Please purchase this pattern!


Chart written out (for 37 st icord option):
R1 (RS): k, sl 1 wyif, k, (p, k, p, k, k) x 5, p, k, p, k
(NOTE: first 3 st are i cord selvedge, and last k st is regular selvedge)
R2: p, (k, p, k, ssk, yo) x 6, k, p, k, sl 1 wyif, k, sl 1 wyif
R3: as R1
R4: p, (k, p, k, yo, k2tog) x 6, k, p, k, sl 1 wyif, k, sl 1 wyif

Apparently the selvedge was already on the chart (the first and last st of the chart).

Some lace charts, the second row is all purl, and then the next row on the chart is back to right to left. Not the case here.

So Row 1 starts at bottom right, and Row 2 on the second row up from the left.

THEREFORE, when you look at the chart, if you are knitting a WS row (all the even rows), you have to k the purl stitches, and p the knit stitches (as indicated in the chart).

Hope that helps!

Triangle Scarf (Reblogged)


Easiest shawl EVER! Formula works for all triangle shawls :) Design your own!

It would appear that my cold symptoms are continuing apace, though in a milder form than they could be, in which case I will renew efforts with vitamins and rest and tylenol and tea. And a bit of knitting on the side of my stack of grading.

But this blog is long overdue for a project update, and I’m finally able to take a moment to tell you about the two scarves I’ve made since mid-October. These, a slouchy beret, and a pair of plain stockinette gloves have all been made with Berroco Ultra Alpaca, and are all part of my Operation: Don’t Freeze My Ass Off plan for this winter. (Always a good plan, I feel).


The first of these scarves was a plain triangular shawl/scarf that I started on the plane to Rhinebeck in October. I finished it while I was there and it has proven a wonderful bit of emergency insulation, and since our November temperatures were stupidly unseasonably mild (o hai global warming nice to see you), I got more wear out of it than I might have expected.


It’s fairly plain, easy to execute over a couple of days (say, on bleary plane and train rides), and I hadn’t thought much of it but every time I go out amongst knitters, someone comments on it and asks what the pattern is. Well, it’s pretty darned simple is what it is. If you want to make one of these too, here’s what you do:

So Easy I Can’t Even Stand it Triangular Scarf

1. Pick your yarn, any yarn (did I mention I love Ultra Alpaca?), and use an appropriate needle size. I went up to a 6mm for the worsted Ultra Alpaca because since it is 50% alpaca it can handle a bit of loose drapey-ness and still be warm.

2. Cast on 7 sts. [Note from the future: For extra stability, knit back and forth for a couple of rows of garter stitch before proceeding.]

and proceed as you would for a regular triangular shawl (increasing 1 st at each end, and 1 st each side of centre stitch, every RS row), something like this:

(RS) K2, yo, k to centre stitch, yo, k1, yo, k to 2 sts before end of row, yo, k2.
(WS) K2, p to 2 sts before end of row, k2.

Work these two rows for a while.

3. Whenever you feel like it, say, every 10-12 rows or so, insert one of the following beginning on the WS of work, while still maintaining the k2 at each end of each row, and yo increases on each RS row:

Paired garter ridges:
(WS) K all sts
(RS) K all sts
(WS) K all sts

Garter eyelet rib:
(WS) K all sts
(RS) [k2tog, yo] repeat
(WS) K all sts

4. Keep going in this combination of stockinette, garter ridges, and eyelet rib until you get the length you want, you run out of yarn, or until you just can’t stand it any more. Work another few garter ridges or a repeat of eyelet rib, and BO all sts. Block if you wish. (I used about 1.5 skeins of Ultra Alpaca for mine, it goes pretty far.)

Originally posted on Glenna Knits:

It would appear that my cold symptoms are continuing apace, though in a milder form than they could be, in which case I will renew efforts with vitamins and rest and tylenol and tea. And a bit of knitting on the side of my stack of grading.

But this blog is long overdue for a project update, and I’m finally able to take a moment to tell you about the two scarves I’ve made since mid-October. These, a slouchy beret, and a pair of plain stockinette gloves have all been made with Berroco Ultra Alpaca, and are all part of my Operation: Don’t Freeze My Ass Off plan for this winter. (Always a good plan, I feel).


The first of these scarves was a plain triangular shawl/scarf that I started on the plane to Rhinebeck in October. I finished it while I was there and it has proven a wonderful…

View original 843 more words

FREE Noro Pattern (June 1, 2015 – December 31, 2015)

In this month’s issue of NORO MAGAZINE, on page 2 it says to go to between June 1 and December 31, 2015 to download a free pattern of your choice from issues 1-4 of the magazine.

Enter coupon code NORO6FREE in the shopping cart.

Apparently it works on Ravelry as well as NORO MAGAZINE uses the Ravelry shopping cart system.






CHICAGO — Save the date, Blackhawks fans.

The 2015 Stanley Cup champions’ parade has been scheduled for 10 a.m. Thursday, June 18.

This year, the championship win will be celebrated at a rally inside Soldier Field. While the city will not confirm the reason, soggy grass at Grant Park could damage the city’s outdoor green spaces and play places before summer has barely begun.

Tickets to the rally go on sale Wednesday at noon through Ticketmaster. There’s only room for 61,000 people inside the stadium.  While tickets are free, they are required.  According to Ticketmaster, the lot will open at 5 a.m. and doors will open at 8 a.m.

The victory parade starts at 10 a.m. at Jefferson Street and runs along Monroe to Michigan Avenue.


How To – Make Personalised Knitter’s Graph Paper


How to make your own knitter’s graph paper in Microsoft Excel!

Also, downloads of Knitter’s Graph Paper here:

Originally posted on :

I’m a big believer in never buying anything you can make yourself and knitter’s graph paper definitely falls into that category.

But first a quick explanation for the non-knitters. Sometimes a knitter will use graph paper to map out a design which will go into the knitting, either in a different colour or in a different stitch. However, ordinary graph paper just won’t do for this, it’s too symmetrical and knitted stitches are rarely symmetrical, usually stitches are wider than they are tall. Therefore knitter’s graph paper is made of small rectangles which are wider than they are tall.

I’ve been looking around for some explanations of how to make the paper using an Excel spreadsheet, but they seem to be generically sized. So I thought about it for a little while and in the end this is how I made the graph paper for my project. It’s really easy…

View original 210 more words

Windy City Skirt

Windy City Skirt

(Formerly: Lanesplitter Skirt ITR, changed per Knitwhits on Ravelry’s request, as she is the designer of the original Lanesplitter Skirt)

Lanesplitter Stripes Pattern

Ravelry Link here:

In the Round, Bottom Up Skirt Pattern

Recommended Yarn: Noro Iro

Skeins needed: Depends on length of skirt, I’d pick up 6 to be safe, but I like below the knee skirt lengths.

Skirt width at bottom hem: 40 inches (this is the length of your walking stride)

Skirt length from waist to hem: 18 inches (for just above the knee) and 20 inches (for at the knee) – NOTE: Skirts grow lengthwise and shrink widthwise as you wear them. Bear this in mind when doing measurements!!

Skirt width at top waist: 37 inches (measure where your waist is the smallest, because this is where the elastic will tuck in)

Special materials needed: Four feet of 2 inch thick elastic, needle and thread

Needle size: 10, circular

Gauge: 4 st to 1 in over stockinette
Desired ease: None or positive ease (none means the skirt is the exact same size you are, positive ease means the skirt is bigger than you)(negative ease means the skirt is smaller than you are and you need to wiggle a bit to get it to fit). [I recommend knitting this skirt with positive ease of two inches]
Note to anyone knitting this pattern: See the above measurements? Those are my measurements. You need to figure out your own measurements so that you can make a skirt that fits you. So, get a measure tape and start measuring! You need three measurements: width at top waist, width at bottom hem, and length of skirt.
About yarn, needle size and gauge: These things can change. Pick out the yarn you like, the needle you like, and knit a stockinette gauge swatch. You will get a number of stitches per one inch of stockinette. This is your horizontal gauge. Remember it.
A little math: The number of your cast on stitches is calculated as follows: horizontal gauge (x) width of skirt at bottom hem. For me, that is 4 st to 1 in (x) [40 inches width at bottom hem + 2 inches positive ease] = 168 stitches. The pattern for the skirt is knit in multiples of three, so I have to check that 168 can be EVENLY divided into three. It CAN, so we are good to go. If your math does not come up with a cast on stitch number that can be divided by three, keep adding stitches until it does divide evenly.

PLEASE NOTE (At the request of Knitwhits, creator of Lanesplitter Skirt, to avoid confusion with her design): Windy City Skirt is a wholly original design, knit with a different construction, stitch, and fit from the Lanesplitter Skirt.

(I am using the number of cast on stitches that matches my measurements and the calculations above – you should cast on the number of stitches from the “A Little Math” section that are tailored to your measurements):
1. CO 168 st using long tail, two color long tail, or knitted cast on.
2. Join knitting in the round.
3. Using A, purl one round.
4. Using B, *k2, sl1
5. Using B, *sl1, k2
6. Using A, *sl1, k2
7. Using A, *k2, sl1
8. Using B, *sl1, k2
9. Using B, *sl1, k2
10. Using A, *k2, sl1
11. Using A, *sl1, k2
12. Using B, *sl1, k2
13. Using B, *k2, sl1
14. Using A, *sl1, k2
15. Using A, *sl1, k2
16. Repeat rows 4-15 until skirt is the length you want it. For me, that is 20 inches.
17. Using A, p one row.
18. Using A, k. (This row stops the pattern stitch above and changes to stockinette stich for the inside of the waistband).
19. Repeat row 18 until stockinette stitch measures 1.25 inch.
20. Bind off loosely, nothing fancy, using a bind off that is stretchy and flat. Leave a long 6 foot tail of yarn attached to the skirt. This will be used to whip stitch the waistband.
21. Fold over waistband at row 17’s p row. That purl row is the top of the waistband and will sit at your waist.
22. Whip stitch the bind off row to the skirt. There should be a 2.5 inch space. Make the stitches fine and neat so they don’t show on the pattern side.
23. When you finish whip stitching the bind off row, you will still have a small 2.5 inch vertical slit left open in the skirt. This is where the elastic waistband will be inserted.
24. Measure out elastic waistband to your waist – it should be comfortable. Don’t cut it yet! Tie one end with a big baby sized safety pin, and thread through the 2.5 inch space all around the waistband of the skirt. When you get to the beginning, try it on. Make the elastic tighter or looser depending on how you like the fit. Sew the two sides of the elastic waistband together.
25. Using your yarn, sew that 2.5 inch gap in the waist closed. Weave in any loose ends.
26. Enjoy your new skirt!