… finish one shawl before I start another.
Even though they’re totally different.
One is a pi shawl, the other a triangle shawl.
Join the Candle Flame Shawl group on Yahoo for pattern and support.
This shawl is so stunning, it makes me sad it’s only available on the Internet Wayback Machine.
Pictures here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/candle-flame-shawl-archived
CO = Cast On
(K,YO,K) = double increase; K1, Yarn Over, K1 into the same stitch
(Sl 2-k1-p2sso) = vertical double decrease; insert needle into 2nd and 1st stitches at once as if to k 2 tog and slip both stitches from this position; knit next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches together over the knit stitch.
Instructions (Corrected! The one at the address below is WRONG!!)
Notated by Linda Clark here: http://web.archive.org/web/20010725170833/http://www.balart.com/CANDLE.HTM
Cast on 1 st , then:
Row 1: (right side)(K, YO, K)
Row 2: P3
Row 3: K1, (K, YO, K), K1
Row 4: P5
Row 5: K2, (K, YO, K), K2
Row 6: P7
Row 7: K3, (K, YO, K), K3
Row 8: P9
Row 9: K4. (K, YO, K), K4, CO 3 sts
Row 10: P1, K2, P11, CO 3 sts
Row 11: (K, YO, K), P2, K4,(Sl 2-k1-p2sso), K4, P2, (K, YO, K)
Row 12: P3, K2, P9, K2, P3
Row 13: K1, (K, YO, K), K1, P2, K3,(Sl 2-k1-p2sso), K3, P2, K1, (K, YO, K), K1
Row 14: P5, K2, P7, K2, P5
Row 15: K2, (K, YO, K), K2, P2, K2, (Sl 2-k1-p2sso), K2, P2, K2, (K, YO, K), K2
Row 16: P7, K2, P5, K2, P7
Row 17: K3, (K, YO, K), K3, P2, K1, (Sl 2-k1-p2sso), K1, P2, K3, (K, YO, K), K3
Row 18: P9, K2, P3, K2, P9
Row 19: K4,(K,YO,K),K4,P2,(Sl 2-k1-p2sso),P2,K4,(K,YO,K),K4,CO 3 sts
Row 20: P1,K2,P11,K2,P1,K2,P11,CO 3 sts
Row 21: (K, YO, K), *P2, K4, (Sl 2-k1-p2sso), K4, P2, (K, YO, K) repeat from * to end
Row 22: P3, *K2, P9, K2, P3 repeat from *
Row 23: K1, (K, YO, K), K1, *P2, K3, (Sl 2-k1-p2sso), K3, P2, K1, (K, YO, K), K1 repeat from *
Row 24: P5, *K2, P7, K2, P5 repeat from *
Row 25: K2, (K, YO, K), K2, *P2, K2, (Sl 2-k1-p2sso), K2, P2, K2, (K, YO, K), K2 repeat from *
Row 26: P7, *K2, P5, K2, P7 repeat from *
Row 27: K3, (K, YO, K), K3, *P2, K1, (Sl 2-k1-p2sso), K1, P2, K3, (K, YO, K), K3 repeat from *
Row 28: P9, *K2, P3, K2, P9 repeat from *
Row 29: K4, (K, YO, K), K4, P2, (Sl 2-kl-p2sso), P2 repeat from NOTE!you won’t have enough sts left on the needles to complete the last repeat, so after the second K4 just end by CO 3 sts
Row 30: *P1, K2, P11, K2 repeat from *, end with CO 3 sts after last P11
Repeat rows 21 through 30 until desired length and width. P one row.
Found the most beautiful stitch here: http://freeknitstitches.com/pattern.php?num=271&menu=7
Pattern Details: 12 st wide, 24 st high
I = knit
– = purl
o = yarn over (purl one in next wrong side row)
/ = k2tog (knit 2 together)
Love the stitches on the freeknitstitches website, but really hate the lack of instruction.
To work the chart above with flat knitting, read from bottom right to bottom left. At the end of the row, start again at the far right. Then turn your work and purl row 2 (and all the even rows).
To work the chart above with circular knitting, read from the bottom right to the bottom left. At he end of the row, start again at the far right. No need to turn your work, all even rows are done in knit stitch.
I’m working that pattern in a shawl, I’ll update the post once my shawl looks pretty. :)
I’m knitting in Patons Lace yarn (so pretty and still, so cheap, only $5.64 for one skein at Joann Fabrics (use the additional 40% off a single item coupon on it for even more savings!), which makes a wrist to wrist shawl). Note the yarn has mohair which is a bit scratchy and sneezy. YMMV.
(No, I don’t work for Patons or Joann Fabrics, I’m just on a budget. Sheesh.)
MAJOR COOLNESS: You know why you should learn Norwegian purling? It’s for projects LIKE THIS!! :)
Written out pattern:
Even rows: knit all (for working in the round)
Even rows: purl all (for working back and forth)
R1: p2, yo, k, yo, p2, k2, k2tog, k3
R3: p2, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p2, k2, k2tog, k2
R5: p2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, k1
R7: p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2, k2, k2tog
R9: p2, k2, k2tog, k5, p2, k1, k2tog
R11: p2, k2, k2tog, k4, p2, k2tog
R13: p2, k2, k2tog, k3, p2, yo, k, yo
R15: p2, k2, k2tog, k2, p2, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1
R17: p2, k2, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
R19: p2, k2, k2tog, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3
R21: p2, k1, k2tog, p2, k2, k2tog, k5
R23: p, k2tog, p2, k2, k2tog, k4
I just learned the best technique, the one that will make that k1p1 rib just fly.
Norwegian knitting seems to be basically continental knitting.
Norwegian purling is done with the yarn in the back, instead of in the front like it is for English and Continental knitting.
Norwegian television had a “Slow TV” show featuring people knitting for hours. I actually really liked it. They made a sweater from start (the wool on the sheep!) to finish in 8 hours.
You know the goddess of aran knitting, Alice Starmore? She has a yarn company, Virtual Yarns. The yarns look amazing, have great reviews, and brilliant colors. The only drawback? You have to mail order them from somewhere in the UK. Free international shipping over 25 GBP (around $50 USD). I can’t find anyone else selling them!
I’ve asked ravelers, I’ve contacted the company, everything to find out just how itchy this yarn is. Because I have a wool allergy. Since there are so many kinds of sheep, it’s hard to know what I’m allergic to.
I can use Malabrigo, and certain types of Noro (Iro, notably). I wheeze like crazy with Cascade 220, anything with mohair, and Shetland wool yarn. Leicester wool yarn is hit or miss. Cormo yarn (like the Juniper Moon Farm CSA Shares I bought) are fine too. So you see, it’s tricky. Oh, and Merino and Cashmere are fine too.
Some reviewers say the Starmore yarn is itchy. Some say it is not itchy. Honestly, who can really say if it will set off their allergy unless the yarn is right in front of them? So I bit the bullet today and ordered one skein of each type of yarn (there’s only four!) that Virtual Yarns sells. I’ll report back once I receive it on how itchy it is, and if it lives up to the hype. I sure hope it does. *fingers crossed*
January, Knitter’s Almanac
I don’t have the confidence to just make the January sweater. Plus, the traveling stitches in the fishtrap pattern look really hard. (I found the same pattern in Alice Starmore’s Aran Knitting book).
Honestly, EZ’s hat instructions leave a whole lot to be desired.
She says to CO half the width of the sweater, knit for 6-8 inches, and then bind off somehow. THAT’S IT.
Gauge: 5 st to 1 in
Fishtrap: 35 st repeat
Ribbed cable: 5 st repeat
CO 100 st.
Pattern: 1 ribbed cable (5 st), k1b, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), p2, 1 fishtrap (35 st), p2, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), k1b, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), p2, 1 fishtrap (35 st), p2 = 100 st.
EZ had this somehow equal 100 st. What am I missing here? 5 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 35 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 35 + 1 = 96 st ;; need to add 4 st — I’ll just double up on the p stitches. That makes it 100 st even.
Hat should be 20 inches across.
Can I be stupid here? I don’t know how to end the hat. How do the decreases work? EZ didn’t say, neither did the ravelers who made the hat (except 1, tellmewhydm, who has very specific, long and painful instructions on how to decrease in pattern – which I’m not going to do, it looks really hard).
Ribbed Cable: 5 st 7 row repeat
R1, 3-7: k1b, k1b, p1, k1b, k1b
R2: Sl 3 st to back on CN, k1b, k1b, then from CN, k1, k1b, k1b
Fishtrap Cable: 35 st 28 row repeat