Kittiwake Rasta Hat 3

Gauge 2.5 st to 1 in (brim)
Gauge 3.25 st to 1 in (Chart A cable)
Yarn: Malabrigo Rasta in Soriano and Stitch Red
DPN Size 9

Circumference 22 inches

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ORIGINAL:
Brim: k1p1 for 4 in (10cm)
Hat body (pattern part) is 17 cm, which is 7 in
Circumference of Kittiwake pattern is 56 cm, which is 22 in.

MY ADAPTATION:
Brim: k1p1 for 3 in
Hat body 7 in
Circumference 22 in

Book: Aran Knitting, Alice Starmore, Kittiwake Hat, page 133 (charts)

CO 54 st
I used a two color long tail cast on.
I’m not using the red yarn past the cast on.

Chart A = Hat, 23 st wide, 37 st high

Gauge at this pattern is 3.25 st to 1 in

Can make shorter, remember to do a 5 to 1 decrease in center of pattern at top row. This would look best at row 37, 25, 13 and 3.

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Chart B = Brim decreases, 19 st wide, 24 st high
Decreases are at row 8, 13, 19, and 24. So every 5 rows, two st per repeat disappears. Two repeats, so that is four st. [RECALCULATE] Gauge of 2.5 st to 1 in, that means 1.6 in disappears every five rounds. That actually sounds fine, take a look again when you get there.

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After Chart B:

Round 1: p

Round 2: p2tog, p3, p2tog

Round 3: p2tog, p1, p2tog

Break off yarn and put through remaining st on needle. Tighten. Fasten off if you don’t want a pom pom or a tassel.

If you want a pom pom or tassel, refer to the book p. 132.

FREE Circular Knitting Patterns (ALL SIZES)

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Check out her website here: http://www.jessica-tromp.nl/circleknittingpatternsroundknittingcircular.htm

Starmore’s Kittiwake Hat

From Aran Knitting, page 130.

I’m changing up the yarn and the measurements, so here’s a record of my math.
The hat is for my brother, whose head circumference is 21.5 inches.
The hat has a lot of ease (it’s wool, that’s why), so I can make it to 20 inches.
Starmore’s hat is made to a circumference of 22 inches.
Starmore’s gauge is 7.5 st to 1 in on size 3 needles.
To cut 2 inches, I’d have to cut 15 st.
Chart A has a repeat of 23 st, or 3 in.
Best fit is done by just cutting one repeat of chart A. The ease should make it okay.
Starmore used two skeins of Scottish Fleet.
I’m using one skein of Scottish Fleet, and one skein of Hebridean 3 ply.
The Scottish Fleet is itchier than the Hebridean, so I’m using the Hebridean for the brim.

Starmore:
CO 168, work k2p2 rib (42 repeats) for 4 in, increase by 16 st (2 inches) evenly.
Begin pattern at 184 st.

Me: Hebridean 3 ply yarn in brown

With a 16 inch size 5 needle, at a gauge of 5 st to 1 in
I want it to be a 20 inch brim, so….
CO 100 st.
k2,p2 for 4 inches
increase evenly by 15 st (115 st on needle)

Change to Scottish Fleet fingering weight yarn (recalculate after calculating new gauge with this yarn)
(calculations below assuming gauge of 5 st to 1 in)

Repeat Chart A for 5 repeats (115 st)
Repeat Chart B for 5 repeats (35 st)(check math on number of st)
Purl

Starmore decreases:
p2tog, p3, p2tog (40 st)
p2tog, p1, p2tog (24 st)
cut yarn, draw through st attach tassel.

My decreases:

/calculations ongoing

EZ Fishtrap Hat

January, Knitter’s Almanac

I don’t have the confidence  to just make the January sweater. Plus, the traveling stitches in the fishtrap pattern look really hard. (I found the same pattern in Alice Starmore’s Aran Knitting book).

Honestly, EZ’s hat instructions leave a whole lot to be desired.

She says to CO half the width of the sweater, knit for 6-8 inches, and then bind off somehow. THAT’S IT.

Gauge: 5 st to 1 in

Fishtrap: 35 st repeat
Ribbed cable: 5  st repeat

Instructions:

CO 100 st.

Pattern: 1 ribbed cable (5 st), k1b, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), p2, 1 fishtrap (35 st), p2, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), k1b, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), p2, 1 fishtrap (35 st), p2 = 100 st.

EZ had this somehow equal 100 st. What am I missing here? 5 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 35 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 35 + 1 = 96 st ;; need to add 4 st — I’ll just double up on the p stitches. That makes it 100 st even.

Hat should be 20 inches across.

Can I be stupid here? I don’t know how to end the hat. How do the decreases work? EZ didn’t say, neither did the ravelers who made the hat (except 1, tellmewhydm, who has very specific, long and painful instructions on how to decrease in pattern – which I’m not going to do, it looks really hard).

 

Ribbed Cable: 5 st 7 row repeat

R1, 3-7: k1b, k1b, p1, k1b, k1b
R2: Sl 3 st to back on CN, k1b, k1b, then from CN, k1, k1b, k1b

Fishtrap Cable: 35 st 28 row repeat

FISHTRAP PATTERN (WRITTEN OUT) LT and RT Instructions FISHTRAP PATTERN (CHARTED)Can anyone look at this chart and understand it? This looks so complicated… Maybe when you’re actually doing it, it’s easier? IDK, I’ll let you know..

 

Stormy Weather Hat

Stormy Weather Hat

Note: This pattern was inspired by the Ron and Hermione Hat on Ravelry. Frankly, I made so many changes to that hat that it became a totally different hat pattern. I thought I’d share this hat pattern for anyone else who may enjoy it. Please tell me how the pattern worked for you in the comments below.

Skills needed for this hat: cable knitting, long tail cast on, fair isle knitting, knit stitch, purl stitch, circular knitting, casting off

If you’ve never made a hat before, this should not be your first hat pattern. I’d recommend starting with Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop hat pattern. If you can get the videos, they are SUPER helpful. THAT should be your first hat pattern (Learn circular knitting, long tail cast on, and fair isle!)

Size 6 16-inch circular needle, DPNs
Yarn: 2 skeins Malabrigo Silky Merino in Blue (DK weight) (using two strands held double) and 1 skein Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in Black
Gauge: 6 st to 1 in over k1p1 ribbing
Gauge: 5 st to 1 in over stockinette

1. CO 100 st. Used long tail cast on with two color cast on (one strand [which is really two held together] blue, the other black). PM every 9 st.

2. k2 p2 for 2 inches in black yarn.

3. Increase to hat size: increase by 11 st to 110 st. Basically, every 9 st, increase one stitch. This row is done in all black yarn.

4. k6 in black yarn, p5 in blue yarn (repeat for 5 rows).

5. C3F [sl 3 st onto cable needle at front, k3, k3 from cable needle] in black yarn, p5 in blue yarn.

Repeat rows 4 and 5 six times. Then do row 4. End on row 4 to prep for decrease below.

Stormy Weather Hat - WIP

Stormy Weather Hat – WIP

DECREASE (keeping the blacks black and the blues blue):
RM = remove marker

6. [C3F (black), P5 (blue), RM, k1 (black), ssk (black), k2tog (black), k1 (black), p5 (blue), RM] x 4;; Note: keep the marker for the beginning of the round, for now. We will remove it later.

7. [k6 (black), p5 (blue), ssk (black), k2tog (black), p5 (blue)] x 5;; Note: I want you to look at your knitting and conceptually understand what you are doing – the first cable is being knit as usual, the purl stitches are being purled as usual, but that second cable, that is being decreased two stitches at a time per cable. At this point it should take a bit of effort on your circular needle. When the effort is too much, change over to DPNs. I make the changeover on the next row.

8. [k6 (black), p4 (blue), ssk (blue and black are being knit together with black thread), k2tog (black and blue are being knit together with black thread), p4 (blue)] x 5;; Note: I put each repeat on a different needle. That means I have 5 needs to hold the live stitches, and one working needle. I used my size 6 and 7 DPNs together. Don’t worry, it doesn’t mess up your work if you do that.

9. [k6 (black), p3 (blue), ssk (blue and black are being knit together with black thread), k2tog (black and blue are being knit together with black thread), p3 (blue)] x 5

10. [k6 (black), p2 (blue), ssk (blue and black are being knit together with black thread), k2tog (black and blue are being knit together with black thread), p2 (blue)] x 5

11. [k6 (black), p1 (blue), ssk (blue and black are being knit together with black thread), k2tog (black and blue are being knit together with black thread), p1 (blue)] x 5

12. [k6 (black), ssk (blue and black are being knit together with black thread), k2tog (black and blue are being knit together with black thread)] x 5;; Note: At the end of this row, only black stitches are left on the needle as live stitches.

13. There are now 8 stitches left on each needle. All are black. You can snip the blue yarn so it’s out of the way, leave a long enough tail to weave in securely (I suggest 6-8 inches).

14. [k2tog all around] x 20 (20 stitches left)

15. [k2tog all around] x 10 (10 stitches left)

16. Pull yarn through remaining loops, tug to tighten, knot and weave in ends.

Your hat is done! Enjoy!

Ron and Hermione Hat (Corrected Version)

This is a free pattern on Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hermione-hearts-ron

Ron and Hermione Hat in Malabrigo Silky Merino

Ron and Hermione Hat in Malabrigo Silky Merino

Size 6 16-inch circular needle, DPNs
Yarn: 2 skeins Malabrigo Silky Merino in Blue (DK weight) (using two strands held double) (I had a bit left over)
Gauge: 6 st to 1 in over k1p1 ribbing
Gauge: 5 st to 1 in over stockinette

NOTE: This yarn is half merino, half silk. So it GROWS and GROWS and GROWS. I am updating the pattern again to reduce it by two cable repeats from the original.

1. CO 100 st. Used long tail cast on with two color cast on (but only one color, to make it easier). PM every 9 st.

2. k2 p2 for 2 inches. (It helps to do this in a 100% wool yarn, like a black cashmerino aran or something).

3. Increase to hat size: increase by 11 st to 110 st. Basically, every 9 st, increase one stitch.

3. k6, p5 for two rounds. (Do this in the blue silky merino yarn)

REPEAT ROW 1-10 BELOW FOR 2 REPEATS:

1. k6, p5

2. k6, p5

3. k6, p1, yo, p2tog, p2

4. k6, p5

5. k6, p2, yo, p2tog, p1

6. k6, p5

7. k6, p3, yo, p2tog

8. k6, p5

9. C3F [sl 3 st onto cable needle at front, k3, k3 from cable needle], p5

10. k6, p5

THEN: Repeat Row 1-8 from above just once, to prep for decrease row.

DECREASE:

9. C3F, P5, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p5

10. k6, p5, ssk, k2tog, p5

11. k6, p4, ssk, k2tog, p4

12. k6, p3, ssk, k2tog, p3

13. k6, p2, ssk, k2tog, p2

14. k6, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1

15. k6, ssk, k2tog

16. k5, *(ssk, k2tog, k4 until last 3 st remain), ssk, k2tog

ORIGINAL PATTERN SAYS CONTINUE AS ESTABLISHED HERE. LET ME TELL YOU WHAT I DID. FIRST, I TOOK OUT ALL THE STITCH MARKERS, AND NOTED WHERE THE BEGINNING OF THE ROUND WAS FOR MY OWN REFERENCE. THEN, I BASICALLY IGNORED THE BEGINNING AND THE END OF THE ROW. I JUST KNIT THE KNIT STITCHES (THESE WERE USED FOR THE C3F, REMEMBER?), AND DECREASED THE NUMBER OF KNIT STITCHES AS THEY WERE EATEN N THE SSK AND K2TOG. WHEN THERE WEREN’T ENOUGH STITCHES FOR THE SSK AND K2TOG, I JUST FINISHED UP WITH A K2TOG.

OTHER RAVELERS HAVE SUGGESTED WHAT WORKED FOR THEM, AND I HAVE LISTED THEIR SUGGESTIONS BELOW (I FOUND THAT THE STITCH COUNTS DIDN’T WORK OUT IN ANY OF THE BELOW SUGGESTIONS, AND IT CONFUSED ME, SO I JUST IMPROVISED AS I DESCRIBED ABOVE; YOU MAY LIKE TO HAVE A LOOK AND SEE WHAT OTHERS DID FOR REFERENCE):

RAVELER SUGGESTION 1:

17. k3, *(ssk, k2tog, k2 until last 3 sts), ssk, k2tog

18. k1, *(ssk, k2tog until last 3 sts), ssk, k2tog

19. k2tog

20. Thread yarn through last 6 st to close.

RAVELER SUGGESTION 2:

17. K3 ssk, k2tog, k2

18. k1 ssk, k2tog

RAVELER SUGGESTION 3:

Row 17: slip 1 K2, ssk, K2 tog repeat

Row 18: ssk, k2tog repeat around

Row 19: k2tog around