Michael Kors Skirt

Need to figure out a pattern so I can make this skirt.

It’s so pretty! (Yes, I’m a fuddy duddy at heart).

NMB2Z2C_mk

I’m going to knit it top down.

Waist is in stockinette, looks like a 1.5 in elastic band.

SO: measure waist, do a test swatch and figure out gauge. Multiply gauge by inches waist. CO that many stitches, join. K for 1.5 in, do a p row, k for 1.5 in again. Seal the elastic waistband inside (in circle, sewed to an inch under waist size).

Pattern is a 6CF, with a st or two st in between. In the picture it’s something like 16 6CF 1 st or 2 st repeats. That is done for 4 row repeats, then the increases begin. Each row after that increases by 1 st or 2 st between the 6CF repeats. Skirt ends with about 3 inches of k2p2.

Overall: pretty simple, but absolutely stunning.

 

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Windy City Skirt

Windy City Skirt

(Formerly: Lanesplitter Skirt ITR, changed per Knitwhits on Ravelry’s request, as she is the designer of the original Lanesplitter Skirt)

Lanesplitter Stripes Pattern

Ravelry Link here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/windy-city-skirt

In the Round, Bottom Up Skirt Pattern

Recommended Yarn: Noro Iro

Skeins needed: Depends on length of skirt, I’d pick up 6 to be safe, but I like below the knee skirt lengths.

Skirt width at bottom hem: 40 inches (this is the length of your walking stride)

Skirt length from waist to hem: 18 inches (for just above the knee) and 20 inches (for at the knee) – NOTE: Skirts grow lengthwise and shrink widthwise as you wear them. Bear this in mind when doing measurements!!

Skirt width at top waist: 37 inches (measure where your waist is the smallest, because this is where the elastic will tuck in)

Special materials needed: Four feet of 2 inch thick elastic, needle and thread

Needle size: 10, circular

Gauge: 4 st to 1 in over stockinette
Desired ease: None or positive ease (none means the skirt is the exact same size you are, positive ease means the skirt is bigger than you)(negative ease means the skirt is smaller than you are and you need to wiggle a bit to get it to fit). [I recommend knitting this skirt with positive ease of two inches]
Note to anyone knitting this pattern: See the above measurements? Those are my measurements. You need to figure out your own measurements so that you can make a skirt that fits you. So, get a measure tape and start measuring! You need three measurements: width at top waist, width at bottom hem, and length of skirt.
About yarn, needle size and gauge: These things can change. Pick out the yarn you like, the needle you like, and knit a stockinette gauge swatch. You will get a number of stitches per one inch of stockinette. This is your horizontal gauge. Remember it.
A little math: The number of your cast on stitches is calculated as follows: horizontal gauge (x) width of skirt at bottom hem. For me, that is 4 st to 1 in (x) [40 inches width at bottom hem + 2 inches positive ease] = 168 stitches. The pattern for the skirt is knit in multiples of three, so I have to check that 168 can be EVENLY divided into three. It CAN, so we are good to go. If your math does not come up with a cast on stitch number that can be divided by three, keep adding stitches until it does divide evenly.

PLEASE NOTE (At the request of Knitwhits, creator of Lanesplitter Skirt, to avoid confusion with her design): Windy City Skirt is a wholly original design, knit with a different construction, stitch, and fit from the Lanesplitter Skirt.

PATTERN DIRECTIONS:
(I am using the number of cast on stitches that matches my measurements and the calculations above – you should cast on the number of stitches from the “A Little Math” section that are tailored to your measurements):
1. CO 168 st using long tail, two color long tail, or knitted cast on.
2. Join knitting in the round.
3. Using A, purl one round.
4. Using B, *k2, sl1
5. Using B, *sl1, k2
6. Using A, *sl1, k2
7. Using A, *k2, sl1
8. Using B, *sl1, k2
9. Using B, *sl1, k2
10. Using A, *k2, sl1
11. Using A, *sl1, k2
12. Using B, *sl1, k2
13. Using B, *k2, sl1
14. Using A, *sl1, k2
15. Using A, *sl1, k2
16. Repeat rows 4-15 until skirt is the length you want it. For me, that is 20 inches.
WAISTBAND:
17. Using A, p one row.
18. Using A, k. (This row stops the pattern stitch above and changes to stockinette stich for the inside of the waistband).
19. Repeat row 18 until stockinette stitch measures 1.25 inch.
20. Bind off loosely, nothing fancy, using a bind off that is stretchy and flat. Leave a long 6 foot tail of yarn attached to the skirt. This will be used to whip stitch the waistband.
21. Fold over waistband at row 17’s p row. That purl row is the top of the waistband and will sit at your waist.
22. Whip stitch the bind off row to the skirt. There should be a 2.5 inch space. Make the stitches fine and neat so they don’t show on the pattern side.
23. When you finish whip stitching the bind off row, you will still have a small 2.5 inch vertical slit left open in the skirt. This is where the elastic waistband will be inserted.
24. Measure out elastic waistband to your waist – it should be comfortable. Don’t cut it yet! Tie one end with a big baby sized safety pin, and thread through the 2.5 inch space all around the waistband of the skirt. When you get to the beginning, try it on. Make the elastic tighter or looser depending on how you like the fit. Sew the two sides of the elastic waistband together.
25. Using your yarn, sew that 2.5 inch gap in the waist closed. Weave in any loose ends.
26. Enjoy your new skirt!

Lanesplitter Skirt Amended for In the Round Knitting

Love this skirt:

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lanesplitter-skirt

Honestly? The pattern is a bit of a bother. I know it’s easy, but it seems so tedious.

And I don’t like that you have to stitch up the sides – if you do that, the cool diagonal lines won’t match up.

Drawback of doing this in the round? You won’t have that high color contrast from changing colors every other row. But I didn’t want to do that anyway, it also seems way tedious.

So basically this is a pattern for a bottom up skirt, knit in the round.

Yarn: Noro Iro

Skeins needed: 3-5, depending on length

Needle side: 10

Gauge: 4 st to 1 in

Materials needed: 2 inch thick elastic for the waist

Original pattern is knit with two inches of negative ease. I don’t think negative ease in a skirt is flattering, so I’m going with no ease or positive ease. Plus, as you wear the skirt, because of gravity, it gets longer. The longer it gets, the thinner it gets. Then it doesn’t fit and you did all that work for nothing.

Most knit skirts need to be worn with a slip or leggings. You need room for that! So, no negative ease. Have to be practical. (You know how I know this? I knit a skirt before – a cute short skirt meant to be worn over leggings. And NO, it did NOT look nice, and NO, it did not fit. All that work for NOTHING).

This is the stitch I am thinking of:

Turkish Rib (slanting left):

Turkish Rib Left

Multiple of two st

Foundation row: k

R1: P1, *yo, PR, rep from * to last st, p1

R2: K1, *sl1, k1, psso, yo, rep from * to last st, k1

Repeat last two rows

PR = Purl Reverse = purl 1 st, return to left hand needle. Insert right hand needle through the st beyond and lift this st over the purled st and off the needle. Return st to the right hand needle.

Turkish Rib (slanting right):

Turkish Rib Right

Multiple of two st

Foundation row: k

R1: P1, *p2tog, yo, rep from * to last st, p1

R2: K1, *yo, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1

Repeat last two rows

Turkish Rib (slanting right) IN THE ROUND

Turkish Rib Right

Multiples of 2 st

(I’m not super sure about this ITR conversion for this stitch pattern)

R1: k2tog, yo

R2: yo, k2tog

Steep Diagonal Stripes (Two Colors)

Steep Diagonal Stripes

Multiples of 3st + 1

Foundation row: Using A, purl

R1 (RS): Using B, k3, sl1, *k2, sl 1; rep from * to last st, k1

R2: Using B, p1, *sl1, p2, rep from * to last st, p1

R3: Using A, k1, *sl1, k2; rep from * to last st, k1

R4: Using A, p3, sl1, *p2, sl1, ; rep from * to last st, p1

R5: Using B, k2, *sl1, k2, ; rep from * to end

R6: Using B, p2, *sl1, p2, ; rep from * to end

R7: Using A, k3, sl1, *k2, sl 1; rep from * to last st, k1

R8: Using A, p1, *sl1, p2, rep from * to last st, p1

R9: Using B, k1, *sl1, k2; rep from * to last st, k1

R10: Using B, p3, sl1, *p2, sl1, ; rep from * to last st, p1

R11: Using A, k2, *sl1, k2, ; rep from * to end

R12: Using A, p2, *sl1, p2, ; rep from * to end

Rep these 12 rows

Steep Diagonal Stripes (Two Colors) IN THE ROUND

Steep Diagonal Stripes

Multiples of 3st

Foundation row: Using A, purl

R1 (RS): Using B, *k2, sl1

R2: Using B, *sl1, k2

R3: Using A, *sl1, k2

R4: Using A, *k2, sl1

R5: Using B, *sl1, k2

R6: Using B, *sl1, k2

R7: Using A, *k2, sl 1

R8: Using A, *sl1, k2

R9: Using B, *sl1, k2

R10: Using B, *k2, sl1

R11: Using A, *sl1, k2

R12: Using A, *sl1, k2

Rep these 12 rows

Slipped St Ribbing IN THE ROUND

Slipped Stitch Ribbing

Multiple of 8 st

Note: sl all st purlwise

R1: k1 wrapping yarn around needle twice, p3, k1, p3

R2: k1, p3, yf, sl 1 dropping extra loop, yb, p3

R3: yb, sl1, yf, p3, k1, p3

R4: k1, p3, yf, sl 1, yb, p3

Rep these four rows.

Vertical Ripple Stripes 

Vertical Ripple Stitches

Multiple of 4 st + 3

Foundation 1 (RS): k3, *yo, k4

Foundation 2: p

Foundation 3: k

Foundation 4: p

R1: *k5, yo, *rep to last 3 st, k3

Even rows: p

R3: k3, *sl next st off left hand needle and allow it to drop down to the loop made 6 rows below, k5

R5: k3, *yo, k3

R7: *k5, sl next st off left hand needle as before, rep from * to last 3 st, k3

Vertical Ripple Stripes IN THE ROUND

Vertical Ripple Stitches

Multiple of 4 st

Foundation 1 (RS): *yo, k4

Foundation 2: k

Foundation 3: k

Foundation 4: k

R1: *k5, yo,

Even rows: k

R3: *sl next st off left hand needle and allow it to drop down to the loop made 6 rows below, k5

R5: *yo, k3

R7: *k5, sl next st off left hand needle and allow it to drop down to the loop made 6 rows below

Rep these 8 rows

Chevron and Feather IN THE ROUND

Chevron and Feather

Multiple of 13 st

R1 (RS): k1, yo, k4, k2tog, sl1, k1, psso, k4, yo

R2: k

Rep these 2 rows

Note to self: If you skip the yarnovers, it won’t have holes. That might make more sense in a bulky winter skirt.

PATTERN RECIPE:

Pick the yarn you like, the needles you like, knit a swatch of one of the above patterns you like. Find out how many st to an inch you are getting. This is your gauge.

Now, take a long step. Measure the length of your stride. Put a tape measure around your knees to figure this out. You want to be able to walk in your skirt. Add two inches (positive ease).

Multiply inches by gauge. This is your number of cast on stitches.

Do a LT cast on or knit on cast on (something stretchy, whatever you like, really).

Knit in multiples of whatever skirt pattern above you like. (So if the pattern is multiples of 6 st, cast on a multiple of 6 stitches). Then just keep knitting until the skirt is the length you want.

When you get to four inches below the waist, change to stockinette st (k all rows). Whip stitch the stockinette st part together to create a waistband. Take your 2 inch thick elastic (it should be as long as your waist and feel comfortable on), pin a large safety pin to it, and thread it through the waistband. Sew the two ends of the elastic together. Voila, done! To be tidy, sew shut the vertical opening where you inserted the elastic too.

Enjoy skirt! You’ve basically made a straight pencil skirt with an elastic waist