Lady of Stars Dress II

Like the GPS always tells me, “Recalculating….” The ancient Egyptian goddess Hathor, is also known as the Lady of Stars and the Mistress of Heavens. She is the goddess of beauty and love, music and dance. Her sacred stone is turquoise and her sacred metal is copper. The Lady of Stars Dress is designed in honor of the Goddess Hathor, and in her sacred colors of turquoise and copper. Egyptians invoke the Goddess Hathor for luck in love, success in their endeavors, and victory on the battlefield. The Greeks call on her by the name, Aphrodite. I designed this dress to be: 1) top down 2) round yoke 3) circular knit 4) seamless 5) easy to modify Neckline: 24 inches Gauge: 4 st to 1 in horizontal stockinette Needle: size 9 on a 16″ circular Yarn: Bernat Cotton (turquoise) and Lion Brand Cotton (brown) Cast on method: Two color longtail cast on Pattern:

  1. Cast on 96 st on size 9 16″ circular needle with two color long tail cast on.
  2. Join to knit in the round. PM at joining stitch.
  3. Knit in garter stitch (k one row, p the next) for 4 rows. This makes two ridges, and is about 1/2 inch in length. PM (in alternating colors) every 12 st.
  4. Begin stockinette stitch (k all rows). Do four increases every round, evenly spaced (every 24st). (do in every alternating group of 12 stitches)(there are eight groups of 12 stitches each, so 1, 3, 5, and 7 are where the increases are in the first round [mark with blue marker], and rounds 2, 4, 6, and 8 are where the increases are in the second round [mark with pink marker])(be consistent – do the increases in the beginning or the end of the 12 stitch grouping, and do not change where you decide to do them for the rest of the project [I did the increases at the end of the stitch grouping]) Increase used: http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/05/very-nearly-invisible-increase.html
  5. Work in stockinette stitch until dress reaches underarms.
  6. Mark st for sides of garment so you can distinguish between the front and back.
  7. Add markers for sleeves. Sleeves are 1/3 of the stitches. So left sleeve is 1/6 of the stitches. Right sleeve is 1/6 of stitches. Front is 1/3 stitches. Back is 1/3 stitches.
  8. Work sleeves to length desired, then bind off.
  9. CO underarm stitches (10 st each side?). Do those in garter, the rest in stockinette. This should add structure to the dress.
  10. Do a few paired decreases for the waist, and corresponding paired increases for the hips.
  11. Keep knitting until dress is the length you want it to be. Bind off. Block. Wear.

Lady of Stars Dress

The ancient Egyptian goddess Hathor, is also known as the Lady of Stars and the Mistress of Heavens. She is the goddess of beauty and love, music and dance. Her sacred stone is turquoise and her sacred metal is copper.

The Lady of Stars Dress is designed in honor of the Goddess Hathor, and in her sacred colors of turquoise and copper.

Egyptians invoke the Goddess Hathor for luck in love, success in their endeavors, and victory on the battlefield.

The Greeks call on her by the name, Aphrodite.

 

I designed this dress to be:

1) top down

2) round yoke

3) circular knit

4) seamless

5) easy to modify

 

Neckline: 24 inches

Gauge: 4 st to 1 in horizontal stockinette

Needle: size 8

Yarn: Bernat Cotton (turquoise) and Lion Brand Cotton (brown)

Cast on method: Two color longtail cast on

 

Pattern:

  1. Cast on 96 st.  Join to knit in the round.  PM at joining stitch.
  2. Knit in garter stitch (k one row, p the next) for 4 rows.  This makes two ridges, and is about 1/2 inch in length.  PM every 12 st.
  3. Begin stockinette stitch (k all rows).  Do four increases every round, evenly spaced (every 24st).  (do in every alternating group of 12 stitches)(there are eight groups of 12 stitches each, so 1, 3, 5, and 7 are where the increases are in the first round, and rounds 2, 4, 6, and 8 are where the increases are in the second round)(be consistent – do the increases in the beginning or the end  of the 12 stitch grouping, and do not change where you decide to do them for the rest of the project)
  4. Work in stockinette stitch until dress reaches underarms.
  5. Mark st for sides of garment so you can distinguish between the front and back.
  6. Add markers for sleeves.  Sleeves are 1/3 of the stitches.  So left sleeve is 1/6 of the stitches. Right sleeve is 1/6 of stitches.  Front is 1/3 stitches. Back is 1/3 stitches.
  7. Work sleeves to length desired, then bind off.
  8. CO underarm stitches (10 st each side?).  Do those in garter, the rest in stockinette.  This should add structure to the dress.
  9. Do a few paired decreases for the waist, and corresponding paired increases for the hips.
  10. Keep knitting until dress is the length you want it to be.  Bind off.  Block.  Wear.

 

 

 

Noro Iro Hat

Noro Iro Hat

 

This is a modification of the Riverbed Rib Hat from Knit Noro Accessories.

Depth: 8″

Needle: size 9

Gauge: 3.5 st per inch horizontal gauge over stockinette.

Hat fits a 22″ head.

Finished hat has 8″ diameter.

PATTERN:

1. CO 56 st on size 9 circulars.  Join.

2. Repeat *(k1, p2, k1) for one inch brim

3. Change to size 10 circulars.

4. *(k1, p2, k1, yo, k1, p2, k1) (63 st)

DO ROUNDS 1-14 OF PATTERN STITCH (multiple of 9 st) ONCE:

1-6. *(k1, p2, k3, p2, k1)

7. *(k1, p2, k1, drop next st, k1, p2, k1, yo)

8-13. *(k1, p2, k2, p2, k2)

14. *(k1, p2, k1, yo, k1, p2, k1, drop next st)

SHAPE CROWN

Decrease rounds are every four rounds.

15-18. *(k1, p1, k3, p1, k1)

19. *(p2tog, k3, p2tog)

20-21. *(p1, k3, p1)

22. Move one stitch over from right needle to left needle. (p2tog, k3)

23. *(k2tog, ssk)

24. k

25. *(k2tog)

26. Bind off.

BRIM

27. slip stitch (crochet) around brim.

28. pick up stitches and put them on circular needle.

29. (k2, p2) for one inch

30. Bind off.

 

Long Rasta Home Pattern and a Little Wilde Math

(Note: This is a work in progress.  I’m doing and redoing calculations as I go along.  So, caution!)

ORIGINAL PATTERN SPECS:

H Gauge: 1.5 st/in horizontal gauge on stockinette st
V Gauge: 2.25 rows/in vertical gauge on stockinette st
Needle: Size 19, 40 in circular
Yarn: Malabrigo Rasta
Size: Medium

PROBLEM: Looks kinda sloppy on the size 17 needles I have; I don’t have 19, but those will only make the unstructured look worse.  Not a fan.  Will have to convert this top down hooded raglan coat pattern into something I can actually use and will actually wear.

MEASUREMENT (at 1.5 st/in gauge):

Hood: 49 st = 33 in

Yoke = 46 st = 31 in

Sleeves + Chest = 102 st = 68 in

Chest = 68 st = 45 in

Waist = 56 st = 37 in

Hips = 72 st = 48 in

MY PROPOSED CHANGES:

SIZE 15 NEEDLE (47 IN CIRCULAR)

Gauge: 2.5 st/in horizontal gauge on stockinette

Hood = 83 st (33 in)

Yoke = 78 st (31 in)

Chest + Sleeves = 170 st (68 in)

Chest = 112 st (45 in)

Waist = 92 st (37 in)

Hips = 120 st (48 in)

MY ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS:

I think the hood size is great.

The yoke is a little large; instead of 31 in, make it 28.5 in (72 st)

I don’t have any idea what the sleeves + chest conversion would be.  So let’s skip that.

Chest: 36 in; Ease of 10 in on a super bulky sweater seems about right.

Waist: 30 in; Ease of 8 in seems all right.

Hips: 40 in; Ease of 8 in seems all right.

 

MY NEW PATTERN DRAFT:

HOOD: (because I’m doing star stitch, it has to be in multiples of 4+1)

CO 81 st

1. MC: k
2. MC: p1, *(star, p1)
3. CC: k
4. CC: p3, star, *(p1, star), p3

5-8. Repeat Rows 1-4

NOTE: OLD PATTERN, 8 ROWS = 3.55 INCHES

REPEAT THE STAR PATTERN A THIRD TIME IF YOU HAVE TO TO GET CLOSE TO THAT LENGTH.

9-24. MC: stockinette st (alternate k and p rows)

THIS IS 15 ROWS, WHICH IS 6.67 INCHES.  BASICALLY STOCKINETTE UNTIL YOU GET TO THIS MUCH LENGTH AFTER THE STAR PATTERN.

THIS HOOD IS ABOUT 11 INCHES DEPTH.  IF YOU WANT IT DEEPER, KNIT A COUPLE MORE ROWS UNTIL IT IS THE DEPTH YOU WANT.  I THINK MAYBE IT SHOULD BE 15 INCHES DEEP.  TRY IT ON AS YOU GO ALONG TO SEE WHAT YOU LIKE.

25. Decrease by 1 st (80st).

Fold at side opposite star-stitched top. Seam together using Kitchener stitch. This is the end of the hood.

TRY IT ON AGAIN.  DO YOU LIKE IT?  MAKE ANY CHANGES TO THE HOOD HERE.  YOU’LL BE STUCK WITH IT LATER IF YOU DON’T DO IT NOW.

JOIN TO HOOD:

1. MC: CO 12 st. With RS facing, start on left side of hood as worn; pick up 40st along the bottom of the hood. You are knitting top down from the hood. CO 12 st.(64st).

IF YOU WANT THE HOOD TO GO RIGHT UP TO THE BUTTON BAND, PICK UP MORE STITCHES HERE.

 

NOTE TO SELF: RECALCULATE THE YOKE WHEN YOU GET HERE!!!!  STARTING HERE, THE CALCULATIONS ARE OFF.  DECIDE HOW MANY STITCHES YOU WANT TO PICK UP, AND RECALCULATE FROM THERE.  NOT DOING IT NOW BECAUSE I WANT TO DECIDE BASED ON HOW IT LOOKS.

 

YOKE:

Set up raglan: k4, p5, PM, p3, PM, p14, PM, p3, PM, p5, k4
(ORIGINAL: STARTING AT FRONT LEFT BUTTON BAND K4, FRONT LEFT P5, THEN PM, LEFT SLEEVE P3, THEN PM, BACK P14, THEN PM, RIGHT SLEEVE P3, THEN PM, FRONT RIGHT P5, FRONT RIGHT BUTTON BAND, K4).
SO THE FRONT IS 18 ST, THE BACK IS 14 ST, AND EACH SLEEVE IS 3 ST.

WITH 66 STITCHES PICKED UP, THE BREAKDOWN IS: K4, P14, PM, P3, PM, P24, PM P3, PM, P14, PM, K4.

1. k to 1st st before marker, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L.

2. k4, p to last 4, k4.

Repeat rows 1-2 seven times.

ORIGINAL PATTERN HAD EIGHT ROWS, WHICH IS 3.55 INCHES.  SO KEEP THE REPEATS GOING UNTIL YOU HAVE THAT LENGTH.

DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES:

1. k to marker 1, remove marker 1. Put all st between marker 1 and marker 2 on waste yarn. Remover marker 2.

CO 5 st. Place side marker.

Join to work, k to marker 3, leave marker 3, put all st between marker 3 and marker 4 on waste yarn. Remove marker 4.

CO 5 st. Join. k to end.

2. k4, p to last 4 st, k4

BODICE AND WAIST SHAPING:

1. k to 3 st before marker 1, ssk, k1, SM, k1, k2tog, k to 3 st before marker 2, ssk, k1, SM, k1, k2tog, k to end

All wrong side rows: k4, p to last 4 st, k4

Repeat waist shaping decreases every 4th row, 2 times more. End on RS row.

YOU MIGHT NEED MORE DECREASES TO GET TO YOUR WAIST SIZE.  KEEP AT IT UNTIL YOU GET CLOSE TO 37 INCHES, OR 92 STITCHES.

Work in pattern with no shaping until pattern comes to your waist.

HIP SHAPING:

1. k to 1 st before marker 1, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before marker 2, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L, k to end

All wrong side rows: k4, p to last 4 st, k4

Repeat hip shaping increases every 4th row, 3 times more. End on RS row.

THE HIPS NEED TO BE INCREASED UNTIL THEY ARE 48 INCHES, OR 120 st.  SO YOU WILL NEED MORE INCREASES TO GET TO THAT POINT.

Add extra rows here to make your sweater longer if you want.

SWITCH TO CC:

1. (RS) k4, p to last 4 st, k4

2. (WS) k

HEM:

Hem is 6.5 in of total length. Requires 4 + 1 multiple st. Knit loose to make your life easier.

1. (RS) MC: k

2. (WS) MC: k4, p1, *(star, p1), k4

3. CC: k

4. CC: k4, p1, *(star, p1), k4

5. MC: k

6. MC: k4, p to last 4 st, k4

Bind off with CC.

SLEEVES:

Sleeves are 21 in from underarm to end of cuff.

Put 12.67 in of st, or 32 st, on DPNs.

1. (RS) MC: PU 2 in of st, or 5 st, under arm. Join for knitting in the round. PM at center of the underarm to mark the beginning of the round.

2-7. k

8. Decrease round: k1, k2tog, k to 3 st before end of round, ssk, k1

9. k without shaping until sleeve measures 16 inches from underarm.

SLEEVE CUFFS: (Multiple of 4 st)

Sleeve cuffs are 5 in of total arm length.

1-2. CC: p

3. MC: k

4. MC: *(star, k1)

5. CC: k

6. CC: k2, *(star, k1), with last 2 st, make star (there are 2 st before the marker, and 1 st after). Slip 2 st pwise, remove marker, slip 2 st back to left needle. Make star, then slip 1 st back to left needle, and PM on right needle. Now marker is in the same position it was in before you moved it to make the star.

Repeat rounds 3-6 one more time.

7-8. MC: k

9. CC: bind off loosely

FINISHING:

Weave in ends.
Steam block.
Put ribbon behind button placket to make it sturdy.
Attach buttons.

For Star Stitch, work with a multiple of 4 stitches, plus 1

To make the Stars, Purl 3 stitches together, leaving stitches on left needle; make a Yarn Over, and Purl the same 3 stitches together again, and then drop off left needle

Row 1: Knit all stitches (Right side of fabric)
Row 2: P1, *Make Star, P1* Repeat from * to end
Row3: Knit all stitches
Row 4: P3, Make Star, *P1, Make Star* Repeat from * to last 3 stitches, P3

Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.

Star Stitch in the Round:

To make the stars in the round – Knit 3 stitches together, leaving stitches on the left needle, Yarn Over, and Knit the same 3 stitches together again and drop from the left needle

Cast on a multiple of 4, place the stitch marker on your right needle and join to knit in the round, being careful that the stitches are not twisted

Round 1: Knit all stitches
Round 2: *Make Star, K1* – continue to end of round
Round 3: Knit all stitches
Round 4: Knit 2 *Make star, Knit 1* – continue to end of round. (You will only be knitting two at the beginning of this round. In all other instances, you will only knit 1) You will end the round by making a star; you will see that you have two stitches before your stitch marker, and one after the stitch marker. Slip two stitches to the right needle (slip purlwise so the stitches are not twisted), remove your stitch marker, and slip the two stitches back to the left needle. Now, make your star, and then slip one stitch back to the left needle, place the marker on the right needle. The marker will be back in the same position it was before you removed it to make the star and will correctly mark the end/beginning of the round.

Repeat Round 1-4 for pattern

Divine Hat / Very Warm Hat Mashup

I did not design either the Divine Hat or the Very Warm Hat.  But I do believe I may have been the first to decide to put the both of them together, in an amazing combination of knitting and crochet skills.

I call my mashup the POLAR VORTEX HAT, because I’m from Chicago, and this hat is double warm and way cuter than EZ’s hat.  Way, way cuter.

1 2 3

These aren’t pro pictures or glamour shots, but I hope you get the idea anyway.

Without any further fanfare, here’s the (short version, cliff notes guide to the) pattern I used:

DIVINE HAT:

With J hook

MAGIC CIRCLE

15 DC

FPDC

3,4. FPDC, DC

5,6. FPDC, 2DC

7,8,9. FPDC, 3DC

10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16. FPDC, 4DC

SC

DC

VERY WARM HAT

NEEDLE: size 9 circular (16”) and size 7 DPNs. This is what I had on hand, so this is what I used.

Pick up 77 stitches from slip stitches above on circular needles / DPNs. Stitches should be divisible by 7.

Knit for 5 inches. Add a fair isle pattern if you want.

Decrease in seven pointed star pattern:

Decrease 7 st evenly spaced around.
Knit one round even.
Alternate decrease, knit round.

Keep going until 49 st remain.
Decrease 7 st every round.

Bind off stitches.