Great pattern. So cute. Great instructions, very easy to do.
Great pattern. So cute. Great instructions, very easy to do.
The instructions are in Portuguese. But it’s easy to follow without even knowing the language, the tutorial is that good.
Like the GPS always tells me, “Recalculating….” The ancient Egyptian goddess Hathor, is also known as the Lady of Stars and the Mistress of Heavens. She is the goddess of beauty and love, music and dance. Her sacred stone is turquoise and her sacred metal is copper. The Lady of Stars Dress is designed in honor of the Goddess Hathor, and in her sacred colors of turquoise and copper. Egyptians invoke the Goddess Hathor for luck in love, success in their endeavors, and victory on the battlefield. The Greeks call on her by the name, Aphrodite. I designed this dress to be: 1) top down 2) round yoke 3) circular knit 4) seamless 5) easy to modify Neckline: 24 inches Gauge: 4 st to 1 in horizontal stockinette Needle: size 9 on a 16″ circular Yarn: Bernat Cotton (turquoise) and Lion Brand Cotton (brown) Cast on method: Two color longtail cast on Pattern:
The ancient Egyptian goddess Hathor, is also known as the Lady of Stars and the Mistress of Heavens. She is the goddess of beauty and love, music and dance. Her sacred stone is turquoise and her sacred metal is copper.
The Lady of Stars Dress is designed in honor of the Goddess Hathor, and in her sacred colors of turquoise and copper.
Egyptians invoke the Goddess Hathor for luck in love, success in their endeavors, and victory on the battlefield.
The Greeks call on her by the name, Aphrodite.
I designed this dress to be:
1) top down
2) round yoke
3) circular knit
5) easy to modify
Neckline: 24 inches
Gauge: 4 st to 1 in horizontal stockinette
Needle: size 8
Yarn: Bernat Cotton (turquoise) and Lion Brand Cotton (brown)
Cast on method: Two color longtail cast on
This is a modification of the Riverbed Rib Hat from Knit Noro Accessories.
Needle: size 9
Gauge: 3.5 st per inch horizontal gauge over stockinette.
Hat fits a 22″ head.
Finished hat has 8″ diameter.
1. CO 56 st on size 9 circulars. Join.
2. Repeat *(k1, p2, k1) for one inch brim
3. Change to size 10 circulars.
4. *(k1, p2, k1, yo, k1, p2, k1) (63 st)
DO ROUNDS 1-14 OF PATTERN STITCH (multiple of 9 st) ONCE:
1-6. *(k1, p2, k3, p2, k1)
7. *(k1, p2, k1, drop next st, k1, p2, k1, yo)
8-13. *(k1, p2, k2, p2, k2)
14. *(k1, p2, k1, yo, k1, p2, k1, drop next st)
Decrease rounds are every four rounds.
15-18. *(k1, p1, k3, p1, k1)
19. *(p2tog, k3, p2tog)
20-21. *(p1, k3, p1)
22. Move one stitch over from right needle to left needle. (p2tog, k3)
23. *(k2tog, ssk)
26. Bind off.
27. slip stitch (crochet) around brim.
28. pick up stitches and put them on circular needle.
29. (k2, p2) for one inch
30. Bind off.
(Note: This is a work in progress. I’m doing and redoing calculations as I go along. So, caution!)
ORIGINAL PATTERN SPECS:
H Gauge: 1.5 st/in horizontal gauge on stockinette st
V Gauge: 2.25 rows/in vertical gauge on stockinette st
Needle: Size 19, 40 in circular
Yarn: Malabrigo Rasta
PROBLEM: Looks kinda sloppy on the size 17 needles I have; I don’t have 19, but those will only make the unstructured look worse. Not a fan. Will have to convert this top down hooded raglan coat pattern into something I can actually use and will actually wear.
MEASUREMENT (at 1.5 st/in gauge):
Hood: 49 st = 33 in
Yoke = 46 st = 31 in
Sleeves + Chest = 102 st = 68 in
Chest = 68 st = 45 in
Waist = 56 st = 37 in
Hips = 72 st = 48 in
MY PROPOSED CHANGES:
SIZE 15 NEEDLE (47 IN CIRCULAR)
Gauge: 2.5 st/in horizontal gauge on stockinette
Hood = 83 st (33 in)
Yoke = 78 st (31 in)
Chest + Sleeves = 170 st (68 in)
Chest = 112 st (45 in)
Waist = 92 st (37 in)
Hips = 120 st (48 in)
MY ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS:
I think the hood size is great.
The yoke is a little large; instead of 31 in, make it 28.5 in (72 st)
I don’t have any idea what the sleeves + chest conversion would be. So let’s skip that.
Chest: 36 in; Ease of 10 in on a super bulky sweater seems about right.
Waist: 30 in; Ease of 8 in seems all right.
Hips: 40 in; Ease of 8 in seems all right.
MY NEW PATTERN DRAFT:
HOOD: (because I’m doing star stitch, it has to be in multiples of 4+1)
CO 81 st
1. MC: k
2. MC: p1, *(star, p1)
3. CC: k
4. CC: p3, star, *(p1, star), p3
5-8. Repeat Rows 1-4
NOTE: OLD PATTERN, 8 ROWS = 3.55 INCHES
REPEAT THE STAR PATTERN A THIRD TIME IF YOU HAVE TO TO GET CLOSE TO THAT LENGTH.
9-24. MC: stockinette st (alternate k and p rows)
THIS IS 15 ROWS, WHICH IS 6.67 INCHES. BASICALLY STOCKINETTE UNTIL YOU GET TO THIS MUCH LENGTH AFTER THE STAR PATTERN.
THIS HOOD IS ABOUT 11 INCHES DEPTH. IF YOU WANT IT DEEPER, KNIT A COUPLE MORE ROWS UNTIL IT IS THE DEPTH YOU WANT. I THINK MAYBE IT SHOULD BE 15 INCHES DEEP. TRY IT ON AS YOU GO ALONG TO SEE WHAT YOU LIKE.
25. Decrease by 1 st (80st).
Fold at side opposite star-stitched top. Seam together using Kitchener stitch. This is the end of the hood.
TRY IT ON AGAIN. DO YOU LIKE IT? MAKE ANY CHANGES TO THE HOOD HERE. YOU’LL BE STUCK WITH IT LATER IF YOU DON’T DO IT NOW.
JOIN TO HOOD:
1. MC: CO 12 st. With RS facing, start on left side of hood as worn; pick up 40st along the bottom of the hood. You are knitting top down from the hood. CO 12 st.(64st).
IF YOU WANT THE HOOD TO GO RIGHT UP TO THE BUTTON BAND, PICK UP MORE STITCHES HERE.
NOTE TO SELF: RECALCULATE THE YOKE WHEN YOU GET HERE!!!! STARTING HERE, THE CALCULATIONS ARE OFF. DECIDE HOW MANY STITCHES YOU WANT TO PICK UP, AND RECALCULATE FROM THERE. NOT DOING IT NOW BECAUSE I WANT TO DECIDE BASED ON HOW IT LOOKS.
Set up raglan: k4, p5, PM, p3, PM, p14, PM, p3, PM, p5, k4
(ORIGINAL: STARTING AT FRONT LEFT BUTTON BAND K4, FRONT LEFT P5, THEN PM, LEFT SLEEVE P3, THEN PM, BACK P14, THEN PM, RIGHT SLEEVE P3, THEN PM, FRONT RIGHT P5, FRONT RIGHT BUTTON BAND, K4).
SO THE FRONT IS 18 ST, THE BACK IS 14 ST, AND EACH SLEEVE IS 3 ST.
WITH 66 STITCHES PICKED UP, THE BREAKDOWN IS: K4, P14, PM, P3, PM, P24, PM P3, PM, P14, PM, K4.
1. k to 1st st before marker, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L.
2. k4, p to last 4, k4.
Repeat rows 1-2 seven times.
ORIGINAL PATTERN HAD EIGHT ROWS, WHICH IS 3.55 INCHES. SO KEEP THE REPEATS GOING UNTIL YOU HAVE THAT LENGTH.
DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES:
1. k to marker 1, remove marker 1. Put all st between marker 1 and marker 2 on waste yarn. Remover marker 2.
CO 5 st. Place side marker.
Join to work, k to marker 3, leave marker 3, put all st between marker 3 and marker 4 on waste yarn. Remove marker 4.
CO 5 st. Join. k to end.
2. k4, p to last 4 st, k4
BODICE AND WAIST SHAPING:
1. k to 3 st before marker 1, ssk, k1, SM, k1, k2tog, k to 3 st before marker 2, ssk, k1, SM, k1, k2tog, k to end
All wrong side rows: k4, p to last 4 st, k4
Repeat waist shaping decreases every 4th row, 2 times more. End on RS row.
YOU MIGHT NEED MORE DECREASES TO GET TO YOUR WAIST SIZE. KEEP AT IT UNTIL YOU GET CLOSE TO 37 INCHES, OR 92 STITCHES.
Work in pattern with no shaping until pattern comes to your waist.
1. k to 1 st before marker 1, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before marker 2, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L, k to end
All wrong side rows: k4, p to last 4 st, k4
Repeat hip shaping increases every 4th row, 3 times more. End on RS row.
THE HIPS NEED TO BE INCREASED UNTIL THEY ARE 48 INCHES, OR 120 st. SO YOU WILL NEED MORE INCREASES TO GET TO THAT POINT.
Add extra rows here to make your sweater longer if you want.
SWITCH TO CC:
1. (RS) k4, p to last 4 st, k4
2. (WS) k
Hem is 6.5 in of total length. Requires 4 + 1 multiple st. Knit loose to make your life easier.
1. (RS) MC: k
2. (WS) MC: k4, p1, *(star, p1), k4
3. CC: k
4. CC: k4, p1, *(star, p1), k4
5. MC: k
6. MC: k4, p to last 4 st, k4
Bind off with CC.
Sleeves are 21 in from underarm to end of cuff.
Put 12.67 in of st, or 32 st, on DPNs.
1. (RS) MC: PU 2 in of st, or 5 st, under arm. Join for knitting in the round. PM at center of the underarm to mark the beginning of the round.
8. Decrease round: k1, k2tog, k to 3 st before end of round, ssk, k1
9. k without shaping until sleeve measures 16 inches from underarm.
SLEEVE CUFFS: (Multiple of 4 st)
Sleeve cuffs are 5 in of total arm length.
1-2. CC: p
3. MC: k
4. MC: *(star, k1)
5. CC: k
6. CC: k2, *(star, k1), with last 2 st, make star (there are 2 st before the marker, and 1 st after). Slip 2 st pwise, remove marker, slip 2 st back to left needle. Make star, then slip 1 st back to left needle, and PM on right needle. Now marker is in the same position it was in before you moved it to make the star.
Repeat rounds 3-6 one more time.
7-8. MC: k
9. CC: bind off loosely
Weave in ends.
Put ribbon behind button placket to make it sturdy.
For Star Stitch, work with a multiple of 4 stitches, plus 1
To make the Stars, Purl 3 stitches together, leaving stitches on left needle; make a Yarn Over, and Purl the same 3 stitches together again, and then drop off left needle
Row 1: Knit all stitches (Right side of fabric)
Row 2: P1, *Make Star, P1* Repeat from * to end
Row3: Knit all stitches
Row 4: P3, Make Star, *P1, Make Star* Repeat from * to last 3 stitches, P3
Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.
Star Stitch in the Round:
To make the stars in the round – Knit 3 stitches together, leaving stitches on the left needle, Yarn Over, and Knit the same 3 stitches together again and drop from the left needle
Cast on a multiple of 4, place the stitch marker on your right needle and join to knit in the round, being careful that the stitches are not twisted
Round 1: Knit all stitches
Round 2: *Make Star, K1* – continue to end of round
Round 3: Knit all stitches
Round 4: Knit 2 *Make star, Knit 1* – continue to end of round. (You will only be knitting two at the beginning of this round. In all other instances, you will only knit 1) You will end the round by making a star; you will see that you have two stitches before your stitch marker, and one after the stitch marker. Slip two stitches to the right needle (slip purlwise so the stitches are not twisted), remove your stitch marker, and slip the two stitches back to the left needle. Now, make your star, and then slip one stitch back to the left needle, place the marker on the right needle. The marker will be back in the same position it was before you removed it to make the star and will correctly mark the end/beginning of the round.
Repeat Round 1-4 for pattern
I did not design either the Divine Hat or the Very Warm Hat. But I do believe I may have been the first to decide to put the both of them together, in an amazing combination of knitting and crochet skills.
I call my mashup the POLAR VORTEX HAT, because I’m from Chicago, and this hat is double warm and way cuter than EZ’s hat. Way, way cuter.
These aren’t pro pictures or glamour shots, but I hope you get the idea anyway.
Without any further fanfare, here’s the (short version, cliff notes guide to the) pattern I used:
With J hook
3,4. FPDC, DC
5,6. FPDC, 2DC
7,8,9. FPDC, 3DC
10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16. FPDC, 4DC
VERY WARM HAT
NEEDLE: size 9 circular (16”) and size 7 DPNs. This is what I had on hand, so this is what I used.
Pick up 77 stitches from slip stitches above on circular needles / DPNs. Stitches should be divisible by 7.
Knit for 5 inches. Add a fair isle pattern if you want.
Decrease in seven pointed star pattern:
Decrease 7 st evenly spaced around.
Knit one round even.
Alternate decrease, knit round.
Keep going until 49 st remain.
Decrease 7 st every round.
Bind off stitches.