Straight to Circular Knitting Conversion: Leaf and Vine Stitch

Leaf Pattern (Flat) Vine Pattern (Flat)

Leaf Stitch (Circular Knitting Conversion):

R1: K
R2: yo, k1, yo
R3: k3
R4: k1, yo, k1, yo, k1
R5: k5
R6: k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
R7: k7
R8: k3, yo, k1, yo, k3
R9: k9
R10: ssk, k5, k2tog
R11: k7
R12: ssk, k3, k2tog
R13: k5
R14: ssk, k1, k2tog
R15: k3
R16: sl 1 st knitwise with yarn in back, k2tog, psso

All of the above count as 1 st. Mark it off with st markers. All odd rows are knit all. This pattern is great for when you need a subtle decorative increase, like waist shaping, or at the back shoulders, or the flares of a skirt.

Vine Stitch (Circular Knitting conversion):

Set up row: k and p in the same st
R1: k2
R2: k2
R3: knit second st on left needle then knit first stitch and THEN drop those two st off the left needle
R4: k2

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Hugs, Kisses and Hearts Cable Motifs

The motifs below are from Melissa Leapman’s Continuous Cables.

But they were first designed by Alice Starmore. Credit for the design belongs to her.

Baby Blocks 1 Baby Blocks 2 Motif_A Motif_B Motif_C

FREE Circular Knitting Patterns (ALL SIZES)

You know how Ann Budd has basically made a fortune doing math for knitters and publishing books about how to knit different kinds of sweaters with different gauges?

Knitter’s Handy Book of Sweater Patterns

Knitter’s Handy Book of Top Down Sweater Patterns

Well, Jessica Tromp has been doing it for years, and for free. She could have published a thousand knitting books of her designs by now, but instead has been kind enough to make them free online and share them.

Check out her website here: http://www.jessica-tromp.nl/circleknittingpatternsroundknittingcircular.htm

Starmore’s Kittiwake Hat

From Aran Knitting, page 130.

I’m changing up the yarn and the measurements, so here’s a record of my math.
The hat is for my brother, whose head circumference is 21.5 inches.
The hat has a lot of ease (it’s wool, that’s why), so I can make it to 20 inches.
Starmore’s hat is made to a circumference of 22 inches.
Starmore’s gauge is 7.5 st to 1 in on size 3 needles.
To cut 2 inches, I’d have to cut 15 st.
Chart A has a repeat of 23 st, or 3 in.
Best fit is done by just cutting one repeat of chart A. The ease should make it okay.
Starmore used two skeins of Scottish Fleet.
I’m using one skein of Scottish Fleet, and one skein of Hebridean 3 ply.
The Scottish Fleet is itchier than the Hebridean, so I’m using the Hebridean for the brim.

Starmore:
CO 168, work k2p2 rib (42 repeats) for 4 in, increase by 16 st (2 inches) evenly.
Begin pattern at 184 st.

Me: Hebridean 3 ply yarn in brown

With a 16 inch size 5 needle, at a gauge of 5 st to 1 in
I want it to be a 20 inch brim, so….
CO 100 st.
k2,p2 for 4 inches
increase evenly by 15 st (115 st on needle)

Change to Scottish Fleet fingering weight yarn (recalculate after calculating new gauge with this yarn)
(calculations below assuming gauge of 5 st to 1 in)

Repeat Chart A for 5 repeats (115 st)
Repeat Chart B for 5 repeats (35 st)(check math on number of st)
Purl

Starmore decreases:
p2tog, p3, p2tog (40 st)
p2tog, p1, p2tog (24 st)
cut yarn, draw through st attach tassel.

My decreases:

/calculations ongoing

Long Rasta Home Pattern and a Little Wilde Math

(Note: This is a work in progress.  I’m doing and redoing calculations as I go along.  So, caution!)

ORIGINAL PATTERN SPECS:

H Gauge: 1.5 st/in horizontal gauge on stockinette st
V Gauge: 2.25 rows/in vertical gauge on stockinette st
Needle: Size 19, 40 in circular
Yarn: Malabrigo Rasta
Size: Medium

PROBLEM: Looks kinda sloppy on the size 17 needles I have; I don’t have 19, but those will only make the unstructured look worse.  Not a fan.  Will have to convert this top down hooded raglan coat pattern into something I can actually use and will actually wear.

MEASUREMENT (at 1.5 st/in gauge):

Hood: 49 st = 33 in

Yoke = 46 st = 31 in

Sleeves + Chest = 102 st = 68 in

Chest = 68 st = 45 in

Waist = 56 st = 37 in

Hips = 72 st = 48 in

MY PROPOSED CHANGES:

SIZE 15 NEEDLE (47 IN CIRCULAR)

Gauge: 2.5 st/in horizontal gauge on stockinette

Hood = 83 st (33 in)

Yoke = 78 st (31 in)

Chest + Sleeves = 170 st (68 in)

Chest = 112 st (45 in)

Waist = 92 st (37 in)

Hips = 120 st (48 in)

MY ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS:

I think the hood size is great.

The yoke is a little large; instead of 31 in, make it 28.5 in (72 st)

I don’t have any idea what the sleeves + chest conversion would be.  So let’s skip that.

Chest: 36 in; Ease of 10 in on a super bulky sweater seems about right.

Waist: 30 in; Ease of 8 in seems all right.

Hips: 40 in; Ease of 8 in seems all right.

 

MY NEW PATTERN DRAFT:

HOOD: (because I’m doing star stitch, it has to be in multiples of 4+1)

CO 81 st

1. MC: k
2. MC: p1, *(star, p1)
3. CC: k
4. CC: p3, star, *(p1, star), p3

5-8. Repeat Rows 1-4

NOTE: OLD PATTERN, 8 ROWS = 3.55 INCHES

REPEAT THE STAR PATTERN A THIRD TIME IF YOU HAVE TO TO GET CLOSE TO THAT LENGTH.

9-24. MC: stockinette st (alternate k and p rows)

THIS IS 15 ROWS, WHICH IS 6.67 INCHES.  BASICALLY STOCKINETTE UNTIL YOU GET TO THIS MUCH LENGTH AFTER THE STAR PATTERN.

THIS HOOD IS ABOUT 11 INCHES DEPTH.  IF YOU WANT IT DEEPER, KNIT A COUPLE MORE ROWS UNTIL IT IS THE DEPTH YOU WANT.  I THINK MAYBE IT SHOULD BE 15 INCHES DEEP.  TRY IT ON AS YOU GO ALONG TO SEE WHAT YOU LIKE.

25. Decrease by 1 st (80st).

Fold at side opposite star-stitched top. Seam together using Kitchener stitch. This is the end of the hood.

TRY IT ON AGAIN.  DO YOU LIKE IT?  MAKE ANY CHANGES TO THE HOOD HERE.  YOU’LL BE STUCK WITH IT LATER IF YOU DON’T DO IT NOW.

JOIN TO HOOD:

1. MC: CO 12 st. With RS facing, start on left side of hood as worn; pick up 40st along the bottom of the hood. You are knitting top down from the hood. CO 12 st.(64st).

IF YOU WANT THE HOOD TO GO RIGHT UP TO THE BUTTON BAND, PICK UP MORE STITCHES HERE.

 

NOTE TO SELF: RECALCULATE THE YOKE WHEN YOU GET HERE!!!!  STARTING HERE, THE CALCULATIONS ARE OFF.  DECIDE HOW MANY STITCHES YOU WANT TO PICK UP, AND RECALCULATE FROM THERE.  NOT DOING IT NOW BECAUSE I WANT TO DECIDE BASED ON HOW IT LOOKS.

 

YOKE:

Set up raglan: k4, p5, PM, p3, PM, p14, PM, p3, PM, p5, k4
(ORIGINAL: STARTING AT FRONT LEFT BUTTON BAND K4, FRONT LEFT P5, THEN PM, LEFT SLEEVE P3, THEN PM, BACK P14, THEN PM, RIGHT SLEEVE P3, THEN PM, FRONT RIGHT P5, FRONT RIGHT BUTTON BAND, K4).
SO THE FRONT IS 18 ST, THE BACK IS 14 ST, AND EACH SLEEVE IS 3 ST.

WITH 66 STITCHES PICKED UP, THE BREAKDOWN IS: K4, P14, PM, P3, PM, P24, PM P3, PM, P14, PM, K4.

1. k to 1st st before marker, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L.

2. k4, p to last 4, k4.

Repeat rows 1-2 seven times.

ORIGINAL PATTERN HAD EIGHT ROWS, WHICH IS 3.55 INCHES.  SO KEEP THE REPEATS GOING UNTIL YOU HAVE THAT LENGTH.

DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES:

1. k to marker 1, remove marker 1. Put all st between marker 1 and marker 2 on waste yarn. Remover marker 2.

CO 5 st. Place side marker.

Join to work, k to marker 3, leave marker 3, put all st between marker 3 and marker 4 on waste yarn. Remove marker 4.

CO 5 st. Join. k to end.

2. k4, p to last 4 st, k4

BODICE AND WAIST SHAPING:

1. k to 3 st before marker 1, ssk, k1, SM, k1, k2tog, k to 3 st before marker 2, ssk, k1, SM, k1, k2tog, k to end

All wrong side rows: k4, p to last 4 st, k4

Repeat waist shaping decreases every 4th row, 2 times more. End on RS row.

YOU MIGHT NEED MORE DECREASES TO GET TO YOUR WAIST SIZE.  KEEP AT IT UNTIL YOU GET CLOSE TO 37 INCHES, OR 92 STITCHES.

Work in pattern with no shaping until pattern comes to your waist.

HIP SHAPING:

1. k to 1 st before marker 1, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before marker 2, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L, k to end

All wrong side rows: k4, p to last 4 st, k4

Repeat hip shaping increases every 4th row, 3 times more. End on RS row.

THE HIPS NEED TO BE INCREASED UNTIL THEY ARE 48 INCHES, OR 120 st.  SO YOU WILL NEED MORE INCREASES TO GET TO THAT POINT.

Add extra rows here to make your sweater longer if you want.

SWITCH TO CC:

1. (RS) k4, p to last 4 st, k4

2. (WS) k

HEM:

Hem is 6.5 in of total length. Requires 4 + 1 multiple st. Knit loose to make your life easier.

1. (RS) MC: k

2. (WS) MC: k4, p1, *(star, p1), k4

3. CC: k

4. CC: k4, p1, *(star, p1), k4

5. MC: k

6. MC: k4, p to last 4 st, k4

Bind off with CC.

SLEEVES:

Sleeves are 21 in from underarm to end of cuff.

Put 12.67 in of st, or 32 st, on DPNs.

1. (RS) MC: PU 2 in of st, or 5 st, under arm. Join for knitting in the round. PM at center of the underarm to mark the beginning of the round.

2-7. k

8. Decrease round: k1, k2tog, k to 3 st before end of round, ssk, k1

9. k without shaping until sleeve measures 16 inches from underarm.

SLEEVE CUFFS: (Multiple of 4 st)

Sleeve cuffs are 5 in of total arm length.

1-2. CC: p

3. MC: k

4. MC: *(star, k1)

5. CC: k

6. CC: k2, *(star, k1), with last 2 st, make star (there are 2 st before the marker, and 1 st after). Slip 2 st pwise, remove marker, slip 2 st back to left needle. Make star, then slip 1 st back to left needle, and PM on right needle. Now marker is in the same position it was in before you moved it to make the star.

Repeat rounds 3-6 one more time.

7-8. MC: k

9. CC: bind off loosely

FINISHING:

Weave in ends.
Steam block.
Put ribbon behind button placket to make it sturdy.
Attach buttons.

For Star Stitch, work with a multiple of 4 stitches, plus 1

To make the Stars, Purl 3 stitches together, leaving stitches on left needle; make a Yarn Over, and Purl the same 3 stitches together again, and then drop off left needle

Row 1: Knit all stitches (Right side of fabric)
Row 2: P1, *Make Star, P1* Repeat from * to end
Row3: Knit all stitches
Row 4: P3, Make Star, *P1, Make Star* Repeat from * to last 3 stitches, P3

Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.

Star Stitch in the Round:

To make the stars in the round – Knit 3 stitches together, leaving stitches on the left needle, Yarn Over, and Knit the same 3 stitches together again and drop from the left needle

Cast on a multiple of 4, place the stitch marker on your right needle and join to knit in the round, being careful that the stitches are not twisted

Round 1: Knit all stitches
Round 2: *Make Star, K1* – continue to end of round
Round 3: Knit all stitches
Round 4: Knit 2 *Make star, Knit 1* – continue to end of round. (You will only be knitting two at the beginning of this round. In all other instances, you will only knit 1) You will end the round by making a star; you will see that you have two stitches before your stitch marker, and one after the stitch marker. Slip two stitches to the right needle (slip purlwise so the stitches are not twisted), remove your stitch marker, and slip the two stitches back to the left needle. Now, make your star, and then slip one stitch back to the left needle, place the marker on the right needle. The marker will be back in the same position it was before you removed it to make the star and will correctly mark the end/beginning of the round.

Repeat Round 1-4 for pattern