Shawl Knitting Cheat Sheets

From laylock.org.

Flat knitting:

shawlshapes

In the round:

shawlshapes-round

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Sebastian’s Sweater

Sebastian’s Sweater

Size 6T
Chest: 25 in
Horizontal Gauge: 4 st to 1 in
Vertical Gauge: 5 st to 1 in
Needle: 8 circular
Yarn: Artful Yarns Flora – cotton rayon mix
Color: Gray
Method: Circular, bottom up, vertical ladders for sleeve openings, sleeves knit shoulder to cuff.

HEM

CO 100 st.

Fancy hem: k 1” of stockinette (k all rows), followed by ½” of garter (k 1 row, p 1 row)
Simple hem: k 1.5” of k2, p2 ribbing
Rustic hem: garter (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 1.5”

BODY

Simple body: K all rows until body (including hem) measures 10 in.
Fancy body: Mark off 4 underarm st for left side, and for right side – k all of these st, every round; This leaves 46 st front and 46 st back – use your favorite pattern for these st. A traditional k and p st gansey pattern would be the easiest fancy body design here. Avoid cables, they will make the sweater too tight for your toddler. If you insist on using cables, size up another needle size or two.

Now you’re at the underarms. Those four st under each arm? Run a bit of spare yarn through them. These will be your platform st for your vertical ladder. Do not skip them or anything, keep knitting them as usual.

Knit another 5 in; now you are at the neckline.

SHOULDER

Divide front and back 46 st not including the 4 right and left underarm st. Drop those.

Of those 46 front st, the middle 20 are the front neck – mark off 13 left front shoulder, 20 front neck, 13 right front shoulder, (4 underarm st, FALLEN), 13 right back shoulder, 20 back neck, 13 left back shoulder, (4 underarm st, FALLEN).

The FALLEN (DROPPED) st are not on any needle or waste yarn. As they fall, they will leave behind a horizontal line on each row. That is GOOD. When the FALLEN st reach the platform st, they will STOP FALLING. This is GOOD. Do NOT freak out.

Place 20 front neck st and 20 back neck st together on waste yarn.

CO shoulder st together – if you want the seams to show, do it on the right side, if you want the seams hidden, do it on the wrong side. Join the right front to the right back, and the left front to the left back.

NECK

Those 40 st together on the waste yarn are your neckline. PU and finish as follows:

Fancy neck: ½” of garter (k 1 row, p 1 row), then k 1” of stockinette (k all rows)
Simple neck: k 1.5” of k2, p2 ribbing
Rustic neck: garter (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 1.5”

CO as you like.

TIP: You can raise the back neck by adding short rows to the back neck st if you like and know how to do that. Instructions are not included here. I’d recommend Japanese short rows (best video how to is by Very Pink Knits on YouTube), as they are the easiest in my opinion. Your mileage may vary.

SLEEVES

CUT the ladder created by the FALLEN (dropped) stitches in half.

KNOT two rows of ladders at a time, both left and right, all the way to the platform st.

The vertical ladder steek is now secured.

Continuing on:

PU four platform st, and front body, neck, back body st.

K three rows, do a decrease before and after the four platform underarm st in the fourth row.

Repeat until sleeve length is 12 inches.

Fancy cuff: ½” of garter (k 1 row, p 1 row), followed by 1” of stockinette (k all rows)
Simple cuff: k 1.5” of k2, p2 ribbing
Rustic cuff: garter (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 1.5”

CO as you like.

Baby Raglan

Yarn: Artful Yarns Flora
Color: Grey
Needle: 8 circular
Gauge: 5 st to 1 in

Child size: 2 T (just a guess, better bigger than smaller)
Sizing from: http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/childsize.html
Chest: 21 in

Sweater pattern: EZ’s Knitting Without Tears Seamless Raglan, p. 73
Sweater is bottom up, worked in the round.
The body is knit first, up to the yoke. The two sleeves are knit second, up to the yoke.
Then sleeves and body are joined, and the yoke and neckline are knit.

NOTE: I initially thought the gauge was 5 st to 1 in. The CO st were written for that.

BODY PATTERN:

CO 100 st.

Knit two inches of hem in k2p2.
(I wanted a fancy hem, so I did one inch of stockinette followed by one half inch of garter. Therefore the hem rolls but not too much. Just enough for style ;))

Knit ten inches in plain stockinette.

Body has now been knit up until the yoke.

SLEEVES PATTERN:

CO 20 st.

Knit two inches of cuff in k2p2.
(I wanted a fancy cuff, so I did one inch of stockinette followed by one half inch of garter.)

Total sleeve length will be 8 inches.

PM before and after four underarm st.

Make inc before and after those four st, every 4 rows.
Increase until you have 33 st, then work straight to underarm.

UNITE BODY AND SLEEVES TO FORM YOKE:

Place 8 st centered around four underarm st on sleeves on spare yarn.

Place 8 st for left body on spare yarn.

Place 8 st for right body on spare yarn.

Total yoke size is 5 inches (math: yoke is 25% of body, which here is 20 in).

The first half of the yoke is worked even (the first 2.5 in).

At 2.5 in, 3.5 in, and 4.5 in, do a decrease row (k1, k2tog).

Short row back of neck shaping (copy hem and cuff design).
(Look at youtube tutorial for Japanese Short Row Shaping).

Weave in ends.

Knit up underarms with mattress stitch.

Done and done.

Windy City Skirt

Windy City Skirt

(Formerly: Lanesplitter Skirt ITR, changed per Knitwhits on Ravelry’s request, as she is the designer of the original Lanesplitter Skirt)

Lanesplitter Stripes Pattern

Ravelry Link here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/windy-city-skirt

In the Round, Bottom Up Skirt Pattern

Recommended Yarn: Noro Iro

Skeins needed: Depends on length of skirt, I’d pick up 6 to be safe, but I like below the knee skirt lengths.

Skirt width at bottom hem: 40 inches (this is the length of your walking stride)

Skirt length from waist to hem: 18 inches (for just above the knee) and 20 inches (for at the knee) – NOTE: Skirts grow lengthwise and shrink widthwise as you wear them. Bear this in mind when doing measurements!!

Skirt width at top waist: 37 inches (measure where your waist is the smallest, because this is where the elastic will tuck in)

Special materials needed: Four feet of 2 inch thick elastic, needle and thread

Needle size: 10, circular

Gauge: 4 st to 1 in over stockinette
Desired ease: None or positive ease (none means the skirt is the exact same size you are, positive ease means the skirt is bigger than you)(negative ease means the skirt is smaller than you are and you need to wiggle a bit to get it to fit). [I recommend knitting this skirt with positive ease of two inches]
Note to anyone knitting this pattern: See the above measurements? Those are my measurements. You need to figure out your own measurements so that you can make a skirt that fits you. So, get a measure tape and start measuring! You need three measurements: width at top waist, width at bottom hem, and length of skirt.
About yarn, needle size and gauge: These things can change. Pick out the yarn you like, the needle you like, and knit a stockinette gauge swatch. You will get a number of stitches per one inch of stockinette. This is your horizontal gauge. Remember it.
A little math: The number of your cast on stitches is calculated as follows: horizontal gauge (x) width of skirt at bottom hem. For me, that is 4 st to 1 in (x) [40 inches width at bottom hem + 2 inches positive ease] = 168 stitches. The pattern for the skirt is knit in multiples of three, so I have to check that 168 can be EVENLY divided into three. It CAN, so we are good to go. If your math does not come up with a cast on stitch number that can be divided by three, keep adding stitches until it does divide evenly.

PLEASE NOTE (At the request of Knitwhits, creator of Lanesplitter Skirt, to avoid confusion with her design): Windy City Skirt is a wholly original design, knit with a different construction, stitch, and fit from the Lanesplitter Skirt.

PATTERN DIRECTIONS:
(I am using the number of cast on stitches that matches my measurements and the calculations above – you should cast on the number of stitches from the “A Little Math” section that are tailored to your measurements):
1. CO 168 st using long tail, two color long tail, or knitted cast on.
2. Join knitting in the round.
3. Using A, purl one round.
4. Using B, *k2, sl1
5. Using B, *sl1, k2
6. Using A, *sl1, k2
7. Using A, *k2, sl1
8. Using B, *sl1, k2
9. Using B, *sl1, k2
10. Using A, *k2, sl1
11. Using A, *sl1, k2
12. Using B, *sl1, k2
13. Using B, *k2, sl1
14. Using A, *sl1, k2
15. Using A, *sl1, k2
16. Repeat rows 4-15 until skirt is the length you want it. For me, that is 20 inches.
WAISTBAND:
17. Using A, p one row.
18. Using A, k. (This row stops the pattern stitch above and changes to stockinette stich for the inside of the waistband).
19. Repeat row 18 until stockinette stitch measures 1.25 inch.
20. Bind off loosely, nothing fancy, using a bind off that is stretchy and flat. Leave a long 6 foot tail of yarn attached to the skirt. This will be used to whip stitch the waistband.
21. Fold over waistband at row 17’s p row. That purl row is the top of the waistband and will sit at your waist.
22. Whip stitch the bind off row to the skirt. There should be a 2.5 inch space. Make the stitches fine and neat so they don’t show on the pattern side.
23. When you finish whip stitching the bind off row, you will still have a small 2.5 inch vertical slit left open in the skirt. This is where the elastic waistband will be inserted.
24. Measure out elastic waistband to your waist – it should be comfortable. Don’t cut it yet! Tie one end with a big baby sized safety pin, and thread through the 2.5 inch space all around the waistband of the skirt. When you get to the beginning, try it on. Make the elastic tighter or looser depending on how you like the fit. Sew the two sides of the elastic waistband together.
25. Using your yarn, sew that 2.5 inch gap in the waist closed. Weave in any loose ends.
26. Enjoy your new skirt!

Lanesplitter Skirt Amended for In the Round Knitting

Love this skirt:

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lanesplitter-skirt

Honestly? The pattern is a bit of a bother. I know it’s easy, but it seems so tedious.

And I don’t like that you have to stitch up the sides – if you do that, the cool diagonal lines won’t match up.

Drawback of doing this in the round? You won’t have that high color contrast from changing colors every other row. But I didn’t want to do that anyway, it also seems way tedious.

So basically this is a pattern for a bottom up skirt, knit in the round.

Yarn: Noro Iro

Skeins needed: 3-5, depending on length

Needle side: 10

Gauge: 4 st to 1 in

Materials needed: 2 inch thick elastic for the waist

Original pattern is knit with two inches of negative ease. I don’t think negative ease in a skirt is flattering, so I’m going with no ease or positive ease. Plus, as you wear the skirt, because of gravity, it gets longer. The longer it gets, the thinner it gets. Then it doesn’t fit and you did all that work for nothing.

Most knit skirts need to be worn with a slip or leggings. You need room for that! So, no negative ease. Have to be practical. (You know how I know this? I knit a skirt before – a cute short skirt meant to be worn over leggings. And NO, it did NOT look nice, and NO, it did not fit. All that work for NOTHING).

This is the stitch I am thinking of:

Turkish Rib (slanting left):

Turkish Rib Left

Multiple of two st

Foundation row: k

R1: P1, *yo, PR, rep from * to last st, p1

R2: K1, *sl1, k1, psso, yo, rep from * to last st, k1

Repeat last two rows

PR = Purl Reverse = purl 1 st, return to left hand needle. Insert right hand needle through the st beyond and lift this st over the purled st and off the needle. Return st to the right hand needle.

Turkish Rib (slanting right):

Turkish Rib Right

Multiple of two st

Foundation row: k

R1: P1, *p2tog, yo, rep from * to last st, p1

R2: K1, *yo, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1

Repeat last two rows

Turkish Rib (slanting right) IN THE ROUND

Turkish Rib Right

Multiples of 2 st

(I’m not super sure about this ITR conversion for this stitch pattern)

R1: k2tog, yo

R2: yo, k2tog

Steep Diagonal Stripes (Two Colors)

Steep Diagonal Stripes

Multiples of 3st + 1

Foundation row: Using A, purl

R1 (RS): Using B, k3, sl1, *k2, sl 1; rep from * to last st, k1

R2: Using B, p1, *sl1, p2, rep from * to last st, p1

R3: Using A, k1, *sl1, k2; rep from * to last st, k1

R4: Using A, p3, sl1, *p2, sl1, ; rep from * to last st, p1

R5: Using B, k2, *sl1, k2, ; rep from * to end

R6: Using B, p2, *sl1, p2, ; rep from * to end

R7: Using A, k3, sl1, *k2, sl 1; rep from * to last st, k1

R8: Using A, p1, *sl1, p2, rep from * to last st, p1

R9: Using B, k1, *sl1, k2; rep from * to last st, k1

R10: Using B, p3, sl1, *p2, sl1, ; rep from * to last st, p1

R11: Using A, k2, *sl1, k2, ; rep from * to end

R12: Using A, p2, *sl1, p2, ; rep from * to end

Rep these 12 rows

Steep Diagonal Stripes (Two Colors) IN THE ROUND

Steep Diagonal Stripes

Multiples of 3st

Foundation row: Using A, purl

R1 (RS): Using B, *k2, sl1

R2: Using B, *sl1, k2

R3: Using A, *sl1, k2

R4: Using A, *k2, sl1

R5: Using B, *sl1, k2

R6: Using B, *sl1, k2

R7: Using A, *k2, sl 1

R8: Using A, *sl1, k2

R9: Using B, *sl1, k2

R10: Using B, *k2, sl1

R11: Using A, *sl1, k2

R12: Using A, *sl1, k2

Rep these 12 rows

Slipped St Ribbing IN THE ROUND

Slipped Stitch Ribbing

Multiple of 8 st

Note: sl all st purlwise

R1: k1 wrapping yarn around needle twice, p3, k1, p3

R2: k1, p3, yf, sl 1 dropping extra loop, yb, p3

R3: yb, sl1, yf, p3, k1, p3

R4: k1, p3, yf, sl 1, yb, p3

Rep these four rows.

Vertical Ripple Stripes 

Vertical Ripple Stitches

Multiple of 4 st + 3

Foundation 1 (RS): k3, *yo, k4

Foundation 2: p

Foundation 3: k

Foundation 4: p

R1: *k5, yo, *rep to last 3 st, k3

Even rows: p

R3: k3, *sl next st off left hand needle and allow it to drop down to the loop made 6 rows below, k5

R5: k3, *yo, k3

R7: *k5, sl next st off left hand needle as before, rep from * to last 3 st, k3

Vertical Ripple Stripes IN THE ROUND

Vertical Ripple Stitches

Multiple of 4 st

Foundation 1 (RS): *yo, k4

Foundation 2: k

Foundation 3: k

Foundation 4: k

R1: *k5, yo,

Even rows: k

R3: *sl next st off left hand needle and allow it to drop down to the loop made 6 rows below, k5

R5: *yo, k3

R7: *k5, sl next st off left hand needle and allow it to drop down to the loop made 6 rows below

Rep these 8 rows

Chevron and Feather IN THE ROUND

Chevron and Feather

Multiple of 13 st

R1 (RS): k1, yo, k4, k2tog, sl1, k1, psso, k4, yo

R2: k

Rep these 2 rows

Note to self: If you skip the yarnovers, it won’t have holes. That might make more sense in a bulky winter skirt.

PATTERN RECIPE:

Pick the yarn you like, the needles you like, knit a swatch of one of the above patterns you like. Find out how many st to an inch you are getting. This is your gauge.

Now, take a long step. Measure the length of your stride. Put a tape measure around your knees to figure this out. You want to be able to walk in your skirt. Add two inches (positive ease).

Multiply inches by gauge. This is your number of cast on stitches.

Do a LT cast on or knit on cast on (something stretchy, whatever you like, really).

Knit in multiples of whatever skirt pattern above you like. (So if the pattern is multiples of 6 st, cast on a multiple of 6 stitches). Then just keep knitting until the skirt is the length you want.

When you get to four inches below the waist, change to stockinette st (k all rows). Whip stitch the stockinette st part together to create a waistband. Take your 2 inch thick elastic (it should be as long as your waist and feel comfortable on), pin a large safety pin to it, and thread it through the waistband. Sew the two ends of the elastic together. Voila, done! To be tidy, sew shut the vertical opening where you inserted the elastic too.

Enjoy skirt! You’ve basically made a straight pencil skirt with an elastic waist

Missoni Dress

So here’s the thing. I want a Missoni dress or top.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/jaunty-2

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/-13-mini-dress

Basically you knit a long chevron tube and stripe it with different yarns. Sounds easy peasy.

Should I make it with cotton yarn or viscose yarn? IDK..

Let’s CO at the hem and work our way up. My last dress had a flared skirt, so let’s make this basically straight.

I don’t like sleeveless dresses (I live in Chicago), so the dress should have cap sleeves. Or be a loose t-topper style top.

Yes, let’s make a loose dress with shortie sleeves.

I want the dress to have positive ease, but the yarn I’m choosing is SUPER loose, so maybe I should knit to a no ease size.

How do I prevent the dress from growing? Crochet sc at the hem, sleeves and neck.

How else to prevent the dress from growing? I could tack out grosgrain ribbon and sew that in, but that seems really tedious.

I can’t be lazy about this, because I want to wear the dress more than once.

Size panels in a contrast stitch. Purl? Garter? Seed?

This dress will need to be worn with a slip.

Yarn:

Adrienne Vittadini Julia in RED (cotton DK)

Reynolds Rise and Shine in BLACK (cotton SPORT)

PATTERN IDEAS:

1. TWO COLOR FEATHER AND FAN

multiple of 18 st, IN THE ROUND

R1: k

R2: k

R3: (k2tog) x 3, (yo, k1) x 6, (k2tog) x 3

R4: p

2.RIPPLE

multiple of 16 st, IN THE ROUND

R1: p2, k6

R2: k4, p4

R3: k2, p2

R4: p4, k4

R5: p2, k6

R6: p2, k6

R7: k4, p4

R8: k2, p2

R9: p4, k4

R10: p2, k6

3. CHEVRON 1 IN THE ROUND

R1: p

R2: k.

R3: p.

R4: k

R5: p

R6: k2tog, k2, k2f&b, k3, sl1, k1, psso

R7: k

R8: k2tog, k2, k2f&b, k3, sl1, k1, psso

R9: k

R10: k2tog, k2, k2f&b, k3, sl1, k1, psso

R11: k

R12: k2tog, k2, k2f&b, k3, sl1, k1, psso

4. CHEVRON 2 IN THE ROUND

12 st repeat

R1: k

R2: k1, m1, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, m1

Chevron Rib

Chevron and Feather

Seed Stitch and Blanket Moss Stitch

SEED STITCH

Seed Stitch

SEED STITCH PATTERN IN THE ROUND:

Even number of stitches:

R1: p1, k1

R2: k1, p1

BLANKET MOSS STITCH

Blanket Moss Stitch

BLANKET MOSS STITCH IN THE ROUND:

Over an even number of stitches.

R1: kfb

R2: p2tog, k2tog

R3: kfb

R4: k2tog, p2tog