In the round:
In the round:
Yarn: Artful Yarns Flora
Needle: 8 circular
Gauge: 5 st to 1 in
Child size: 2 T (just a guess, better bigger than smaller)
Sizing from: http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/childsize.html
Chest: 21 in
Sweater pattern: EZ’s Knitting Without Tears Seamless Raglan, p. 73
Sweater is bottom up, worked in the round.
The body is knit first, up to the yoke. The two sleeves are knit second, up to the yoke.
Then sleeves and body are joined, and the yoke and neckline are knit.
NOTE: I initially thought the gauge was 5 st to 1 in. The CO st were written for that.
CO 100 st.
Knit two inches of hem in k2p2.
(I wanted a fancy hem, so I did one inch of stockinette followed by one half inch of garter. Therefore the hem rolls but not too much. Just enough for style ;))
Knit ten inches in plain stockinette.
Body has now been knit up until the yoke.
CO 20 st.
Knit two inches of cuff in k2p2.
(I wanted a fancy cuff, so I did one inch of stockinette followed by one half inch of garter.)
Total sleeve length will be 8 inches.
PM before and after four underarm st.
Make inc before and after those four st, every 4 rows.
Increase until you have 33 st, then work straight to underarm.
UNITE BODY AND SLEEVES TO FORM YOKE:
Place 8 st centered around four underarm st on sleeves on spare yarn.
Place 8 st for left body on spare yarn.
Place 8 st for right body on spare yarn.
Total yoke size is 5 inches (math: yoke is 25% of body, which here is 20 in).
The first half of the yoke is worked even (the first 2.5 in).
At 2.5 in, 3.5 in, and 4.5 in, do a decrease row (k1, k2tog).
Short row back of neck shaping (copy hem and cuff design).
(Look at youtube tutorial for Japanese Short Row Shaping).
Weave in ends.
Knit up underarms with mattress stitch.
Done and done.
Windy City Skirt
Ravelry Link here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/windy-city-skirt
In the Round, Bottom Up Skirt Pattern
Recommended Yarn: Noro Iro
Skeins needed: Depends on length of skirt, I’d pick up 6 to be safe, but I like below the knee skirt lengths.
Skirt width at bottom hem: 40 inches (this is the length of your walking stride)
Skirt length from waist to hem: 18 inches (for just above the knee) and 20 inches (for at the knee) – NOTE: Skirts grow lengthwise and shrink widthwise as you wear them. Bear this in mind when doing measurements!!
Skirt width at top waist: 37 inches (measure where your waist is the smallest, because this is where the elastic will tuck in)
Special materials needed: Four feet of 2 inch thick elastic, needle and thread
Needle size: 10, circular
Gauge: 4 st to 1 in over stockinette
Desired ease: None or positive ease (none means the skirt is the exact same size you are, positive ease means the skirt is bigger than you)(negative ease means the skirt is smaller than you are and you need to wiggle a bit to get it to fit). [I recommend knitting this skirt with positive ease of two inches]
Note to anyone knitting this pattern: See the above measurements? Those are my measurements. You need to figure out your own measurements so that you can make a skirt that fits you. So, get a measure tape and start measuring! You need three measurements: width at top waist, width at bottom hem, and length of skirt.
About yarn, needle size and gauge: These things can change. Pick out the yarn you like, the needle you like, and knit a stockinette gauge swatch. You will get a number of stitches per one inch of stockinette. This is your horizontal gauge. Remember it.
A little math: The number of your cast on stitches is calculated as follows: horizontal gauge (x) width of skirt at bottom hem. For me, that is 4 st to 1 in (x) [40 inches width at bottom hem + 2 inches positive ease] = 168 stitches. The pattern for the skirt is knit in multiples of three, so I have to check that 168 can be EVENLY divided into three. It CAN, so we are good to go. If your math does not come up with a cast on stitch number that can be divided by three, keep adding stitches until it does divide evenly.
PLEASE NOTE (At the request of Knitwhits, creator of Lanesplitter Skirt, to avoid confusion with her design): Windy City Skirt is a wholly original design, knit with a different construction, stitch, and fit from the Lanesplitter Skirt.
(I am using the number of cast on stitches that matches my measurements and the calculations above – you should cast on the number of stitches from the “A Little Math” section that are tailored to your measurements):
1. CO 168 st using long tail, two color long tail, or knitted cast on.
2. Join knitting in the round.
3. Using A, purl one round.
4. Using B, *k2, sl1
5. Using B, *sl1, k2
6. Using A, *sl1, k2
7. Using A, *k2, sl1
8. Using B, *sl1, k2
9. Using B, *sl1, k2
10. Using A, *k2, sl1
11. Using A, *sl1, k2
12. Using B, *sl1, k2
13. Using B, *k2, sl1
14. Using A, *sl1, k2
15. Using A, *sl1, k2
16. Repeat rows 4-15 until skirt is the length you want it. For me, that is 20 inches.
17. Using A, p one row.
18. Using A, k. (This row stops the pattern stitch above and changes to stockinette stich for the inside of the waistband).
19. Repeat row 18 until stockinette stitch measures 1.25 inch.
20. Bind off loosely, nothing fancy, using a bind off that is stretchy and flat. Leave a long 6 foot tail of yarn attached to the skirt. This will be used to whip stitch the waistband.
21. Fold over waistband at row 17’s p row. That purl row is the top of the waistband and will sit at your waist.
22. Whip stitch the bind off row to the skirt. There should be a 2.5 inch space. Make the stitches fine and neat so they don’t show on the pattern side.
23. When you finish whip stitching the bind off row, you will still have a small 2.5 inch vertical slit left open in the skirt. This is where the elastic waistband will be inserted.
24. Measure out elastic waistband to your waist – it should be comfortable. Don’t cut it yet! Tie one end with a big baby sized safety pin, and thread through the 2.5 inch space all around the waistband of the skirt. When you get to the beginning, try it on. Make the elastic tighter or looser depending on how you like the fit. Sew the two sides of the elastic waistband together.
25. Using your yarn, sew that 2.5 inch gap in the waist closed. Weave in any loose ends.
26. Enjoy your new skirt!
Leaf Stitch (Circular Knitting Conversion):
R2: yo, k1, yo
R4: k1, yo, k1, yo, k1
R6: k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
R8: k3, yo, k1, yo, k3
R10: ssk, k5, k2tog
R12: ssk, k3, k2tog
R14: ssk, k1, k2tog
R16: sl 1 st knitwise with yarn in back, k2tog, psso
All of the above count as 1 st. Mark it off with st markers. All odd rows are knit all. This pattern is great for when you need a subtle decorative increase, like waist shaping, or at the back shoulders, or the flares of a skirt.
Vine Stitch (Circular Knitting conversion):
Set up row: k and p in the same st
R3: knit second st on left needle then knit first stitch and THEN drop those two st off the left needle
You know how Ann Budd has basically made a fortune doing math for knitters and publishing books about how to knit different kinds of sweaters with different gauges?
Well, Jessica Tromp has been doing it for years, and for free. She could have published a thousand knitting books of her designs by now, but instead has been kind enough to make them free online and share them.
Check out her website here: http://www.jessica-tromp.nl/circleknittingpatternsroundknittingcircular.htm
January, Knitter’s Almanac
I don’t have the confidence to just make the January sweater. Plus, the traveling stitches in the fishtrap pattern look really hard. (I found the same pattern in Alice Starmore’s Aran Knitting book).
Honestly, EZ’s hat instructions leave a whole lot to be desired.
She says to CO half the width of the sweater, knit for 6-8 inches, and then bind off somehow. THAT’S IT.
Gauge: 5 st to 1 in
Fishtrap: 35 st repeat
Ribbed cable: 5 st repeat
CO 100 st.
Pattern: 1 ribbed cable (5 st), k1b, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), p2, 1 fishtrap (35 st), p2, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), k1b, 1 ribbed cable (5 st), p2, 1 fishtrap (35 st), p2 = 100 st.
EZ had this somehow equal 100 st. What am I missing here? 5 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 35 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 35 + 1 = 96 st ;; need to add 4 st — I’ll just double up on the p stitches. That makes it 100 st even.
Hat should be 20 inches across.
Can I be stupid here? I don’t know how to end the hat. How do the decreases work? EZ didn’t say, neither did the ravelers who made the hat (except 1, tellmewhydm, who has very specific, long and painful instructions on how to decrease in pattern – which I’m not going to do, it looks really hard).
Ribbed Cable: 5 st 7 row repeat
R1, 3-7: k1b, k1b, p1, k1b, k1b
R2: Sl 3 st to back on CN, k1b, k1b, then from CN, k1, k1b, k1b
Fishtrap Cable: 35 st 28 row repeat
Idea # 1 :: This is just an idea
Juniper Moon Farms
Spring 2013 DK CSA Yarn
I have 6 skeins of the stuff in natural
Gauge: 5 st to 1 in
Sweater design: Bottom up sweater. Circular. Rest TBD.
Made for: Brother
Chest: 35 1/2″
Waist: 33 1/2″
Brother’s Fave Sweater Measurements:
Arms: 22″ (short!!)
k tbl=knit through back loop
HEM (Based on Alice Starmore Design): 6 st, 6 row repeat
CO 114 st. (cable cast on or long tail cast on)
Rounds 1-4,6: k, p, k, p, k tbl, p
Round 5: k, p, k, p, sl 2 st onto CN at front, k tbl next st, sl p st onto left needle and p it, k tbl last CN st, p, k, p, k
Do hem for 3 inches. It’s sooo pretty and just a slight modification of a k1,p1 ribbed hem.
Front: 56 st
Left seam st: 1 st
Back: 56 st
Right seam st: 1 st
Seam stitch should always alternate k and p, all the way to the underarm.
FRONT 56 st pattern: — decrease 1 st to get front to 55 st.
EZ’s fishtrap pattern is 35 st wide.
10 st stockinette, 35 st fishtrap, 10 st stockinette.
To stockinette, k all rows.
BACK 56 st pattern:
23 st stockinette, 10 st seed or moss st, 23 st stockinette.
Knit back and front up to underarms.
Then reread Knitting Without Tears and decide if you want a raglan, saddle shoulder, or hybrid sweater.