How to make your own knitter’s graph paper in Microsoft Excel!
Also, downloads of Knitter’s Graph Paper here: http://www.tidyform.com/graph-paper.html
I’m a big believer in never buying anything you can make yourself and knitter’s graph paper definitely falls into that category.
But first a quick explanation for the non-knitters. Sometimes a knitter will use graph paper to map out a design which will go into the knitting, either in a different colour or in a different stitch. However, ordinary graph paper just won’t do for this, it’s too symmetrical and knitted stitches are rarely symmetrical, usually stitches are wider than they are tall. Therefore knitter’s graph paper is made of small rectangles which are wider than they are tall.
I’ve been looking around for some explanations of how to make the paper using an Excel spreadsheet, but they seem to be generically sized. So I thought about it for a little while and in the end this is how I made the graph paper for my project. It’s really easy…
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Honestly? You can make an imitation Burberry sweater with the chart pattern too.
Leaf Stitch (Circular Knitting Conversion):
R2: yo, k1, yo
R4: k1, yo, k1, yo, k1
R6: k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
R8: k3, yo, k1, yo, k3
R10: ssk, k5, k2tog
R12: ssk, k3, k2tog
R14: ssk, k1, k2tog
R16: sl 1 st knitwise with yarn in back, k2tog, psso
All of the above count as 1 st. Mark it off with st markers. All odd rows are knit all. This pattern is great for when you need a subtle decorative increase, like waist shaping, or at the back shoulders, or the flares of a skirt.
Vine Stitch (Circular Knitting conversion):
Set up row: k and p in the same st
R3: knit second st on left needle then knit first stitch and THEN drop those two st off the left needle
Written out pattern for circular knitting:
Multiple of 9 st
R1: M1knitwise, CDI, M1knitwise, p4
R2: k2, p1, k2, p4
R3: (IDK..) [k1, p1], p1, [sl 1 st onto cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn], p1, [sl 2 st onto cn, hold to front, p1, k2 from cn], p2, [sl 1 st onto cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn] (NOTE; skip the first k1,p1 going into the round, because it’s part of the last cable stitch)
R4: k1, p3, k2, p2, k1
R5: [p1], p3, [sl 2 sts onto cn, hold to front, p1, k2 from cn], [sl 1 st onto cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn]
R6: p5, k4
R7: p5, [sl 2 st onto cn, hold to front, k2, k2 from cn]
R8:: p5, k4
R9: [k1], p3, [sl 1 st onto cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn], [sl 2 sts onto cn, hold to front, p1, k2 from cn]
R10: k1, p3, k2, p2, k1
R11: [k2], p1, [sl 1 st onto cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn], p2, [sl 2 sts onto cn, hold to front, p1, k2 from cn]
R12: 5to1dec, p4
From Aran Knitting, page 130.
I’m changing up the yarn and the measurements, so here’s a record of my math.
The hat is for my brother, whose head circumference is 21.5 inches.
The hat has a lot of ease (it’s wool, that’s why), so I can make it to 20 inches.
Starmore’s hat is made to a circumference of 22 inches.
Starmore’s gauge is 7.5 st to 1 in on size 3 needles.
To cut 2 inches, I’d have to cut 15 st.
Chart A has a repeat of 23 st, or 3 in.
Best fit is done by just cutting one repeat of chart A. The ease should make it okay.
Starmore used two skeins of Scottish Fleet.
I’m using one skein of Scottish Fleet, and one skein of Hebridean 3 ply.
The Scottish Fleet is itchier than the Hebridean, so I’m using the Hebridean for the brim.
CO 168, work k2p2 rib (42 repeats) for 4 in, increase by 16 st (2 inches) evenly.
Begin pattern at 184 st.
Me: Hebridean 3 ply yarn in brown
With a 16 inch size 5 needle, at a gauge of 5 st to 1 in
I want it to be a 20 inch brim, so….
CO 100 st.
k2,p2 for 4 inches
increase evenly by 15 st (115 st on needle)
Change to Scottish Fleet fingering weight yarn (recalculate after calculating new gauge with this yarn)
(calculations below assuming gauge of 5 st to 1 in)
Repeat Chart A for 5 repeats (115 st)
Repeat Chart B for 5 repeats (35 st)(check math on number of st)
p2tog, p3, p2tog (40 st)
p2tog, p1, p2tog (24 st)
cut yarn, draw through st attach tassel.