Elizabeth Zimmermann Yoke Cheat Sheet

http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/zimmermaniacs/3181945/1-25

Excellent summation by skeincharmer on ravelry.

Full post follows:

Greetings!
xraymd found my blog posts about EZ yokes comparison in Russian (1, 2), and asked for details, so I decided to put sort of translation here as this place seems the most appropriate.
I am a bit lazy to redraw my atrocious ‘schematics’ from the first post (because they are innacurate a bit), so here is the text version.

As we know, Elizabeth Zimmermann wasn’t very concerned about row gauge, but we can assume quite reliably that her favourite 5spi could be accompanied with either 7.5rpi (2:3 stitch to row ratio), 6.6rpi (3:4 stitch to row ratio), or 7rpi (5:7 stitch to row ratio). This brings us the following numbers:

Circular yoke (from Knitting Without Tears)
Body circumference (40”): 200 sts (K).
Upper sleeve: 33% K = 66 sts.
Underarm: 8% K = 16 sts.
Yoke circumference: 268 sts.
Neck opening: 40% K = 80 sts, 16”.
Yoke height: 25% K in inches = 10” = 66-75 rounds depending on rpi.
Yoke circumference after first series of decreases: 268/3×2 = 179 sts (at 33-35-38 round).
Yoke circumference after second series of decreases: 179/3×2 = 120 sts (at 50-53-56 round).
Yoke circumference after third series of decreases: 120/3×2 = 80 sts.
Back of neck shaping: 6 rows.

Circular yoke (from Knitting Around)
The only difference from the previous version is yoke decreases:
Yoke circumference after first series of decreases: 268/4×3 = 201 sts (at 33-35-38 round).
Yoke circumference after second series of decreases: 201/3×2 = 134 sts (at 50-53-56 round).
Yoke circumference after third series of decreases: 134/5×3 = 80 sts.
This yoke is wider from neck to shoulders, hence more anatomical.

Raglan
Body circumference (40”): 200 sts (K).
Upper sleeve: 33% K = 66 sts.
Underarm: 8% K = 16 sts.
Yoke circumference: 268 sts, of which
Yoke for sleeve: 50 sts,
Yoke for front/back: 84 sts.
Yoke height: 50 rounds (because we decrease sleeve stitches altogether).
Yoke height in inches: from 7.5” at 6.6rpi to 6.6” at 7.5rpi. I.e. 2.5”-3.5” shorter than circular yoke! That’s why we’re directed to knit “couple of inches” on all yoke stitches before starting raglan decreases.
Back neck width: 84-50 = 34 sts, 6.8”.
Front neck width: 34 sts.
Front neck depth: 10 rows, 1.3”-1.5” depending on rpi.
Neck opening (averaged): 2×6.8+2×1.4 = 16.4”.

Saddle-shoulder
Body circumference (40”): 200 sts (K).
Upper sleeve: 33% K = 66 sts.
Underarm: 8% K = 16 sts.
Yoke circumference: 268 sts, of which
Yoke for sleeve: 50 sts,
Yoke for front/back: 84 sts.
Cross-shoulder: 35% K = 70 sts.
Saddle: 8% K = 16 sts, 3.2”.
Underarm decreases: (84-70)/2 = 7 rounds,
Sleeve cap decreases: (50-16)/2 = 17 rounds,
Rounding up for saddle: 10 rounds,
Total yoke height without saddle: 7+17+10 = 32 rounds, 4.3”-4.8” depending on rpi.
Total yoke height including half of saddle (averaged): 3.2/2+4.5 = 6.1”. I.e. even shorter than raglan.
Front/back neck width: 34 sts, 6.8”.
Front neck depth: 8 sts, 1.6”.
Neck opening: 2×6.8+2×1.6 = 16.8”.

Hybrid
Body circumference (40”): 200 sts (K).
Upper sleeve: 33% K = 66 sts.
Underarm: 5% K = 10 sts.
Yoke circumference: 292 sts, of which
Yoke for sleeve: 56 sts,
Yoke for front/back: 90 sts.
Saddle: 16% K = 32 sts, 6.4”.
“Raglan” yoke: (56-32)/2×3 = 36 rounds, 4.8”-5.45” depending on rpi.
Total yoke height including half of saddle (averaged): 6.4/2+5.125 = 8.325”. Still shorter than circular yoke.
Saddle length: 44 rows.
Saddle length for body: 22 sts.
Front/back neck width: 90-2×12-2×22 = 22 sts, 4.4”.
Front neck depth: 16 sts, 3.2”.
Neck opening: 2×4.4+2×3.2 = 15.2”.

Shirt yoke
The only difference from Hybrid is that Shirt yoke back of neck is formed by a saddle
Back neck width: 44 rows, 5.86”-6.6” depending on rpi.
Neck opening (averaged): 4.4”+6.3”+2×3.2”=17”.

Seamless set-in sleeve
Body circumference (40”): 200 sts (K).
Upper sleeve: 33% K = 66 sts.
Underarm: 8% K = 16 sts.
Yoke circumference: 268 sts, of which
Yoke for sleeve: 50 sts,
Yoke for front/back: 84 sts.
Cross-shoulder: 35% K = 70 sts.
Top of sleeve cap: 10 sts.
Underarm decreases: (84-70)/2 = 7 rounds,
Sleeve cap decreases every other round (till 16% K = 32 sts): (50-32)/2×2 = 18 rounds,
Sleeve cap decreases every round (till 10 sts): (32-10)/2 = 11 rounds,
Top of armhole: 10 rows.
Sleeve cap total height: 7+18+11 = 36 rounds, 4.8”-5.45” depending on rpi.
Yoke total height: 7+18+11+10 = 46 rounds, 6.13”-6.96” depending on rpi, 6.55” at average.
Back neck width: 70/3 = 22 sts.
Back of neck shaping: (70-22)/2/3 = 8 rows.
(And I don’t remember about front of neck, sorry.)

As another point of reference, Priscilla Gibson-Roberts feature 20% K height for set-in sleeve yoke, i.e. 8”, in her Knitting in the Old Way: Designs & Techniques from Ethnic Sweaters (Nomad Press 2003). From this perspective, Hybrid and Shirt Yoke of EZ should be quite close to set-in sleeve of PGR.

Hope you like numbers as much as I do! :)

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